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Elle Fanning in Stella McCartney Flare Leg Jeans

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Japanese Indigo at Liberty Fair: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo


The second batch of discoveries from our jaunt through Liberty Fairs is indigo-drenched. Indigo is a native plant in Japan and the history of Indigo dye on the small eastern island runs deep, back to the 10th century. The technique boomed during the Edo period (1192-1333) due to the dye’s ability to cling well to cotton, the popular fabric of the lower classes at the time. By the early 1900′s almost 1400 acres were covered in indigo crop in Japan, now a mere 70 acres. The process of dyeing naturally is laborious, time-consuming and is carried on by skilled artisans. Traditionally Sukumo leaves, wheat bran, sake, hardwood ash and lime are combined in vats and fermented to produce the ocean hue. In Japanese culture the dye has been believed to contain protective properties from warning off insects and snakes in fields to sparing firemen burns. Out of the hundreds of booths at Liberty Fairs two stood out to us: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo.

Blue Blue Japan began in 1993 and designer Kenji Tsuji has been designing there since 2006. His designs usually contain bold, graphic interpretations of traditional Japanese motifs and patterns (waves, the sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc.). When his pieces aren’t emblazoned with beautiful images they are simple and highlight the beauty of traditional indigo dye. Many of the shirts are made with a tie dye technique called Shibori or have a dip dyed ombre fade. The construction of the garments is based on farm work wear. You can find Blue Blue Japan products at Union Made Goods, Mr Porter, and Hickoree’s. Read more about Kenji at mrporter.com.

 

Blue Blue Japan

Designer Kenji Tsuji

Japanese patch jacket boro

 

embroidered bomber

Embroidered satin bomber in blue and black

Japanese wave park

Wave parka

Blue Blue Japan indigo ombre sweatshirt

Indigo ombre sweatshirt

Blue Blue Japan

 

Bue Blue Japan dyed shirt

 

Koromo also had our hearts racing and mouths gaping. Koromo’s designs are focused on traditional Japanese sewing and patching techniques. The collection shown at Liberty Fair was heavy on boro patchwork and sashiko stitching. In the words of the company, “Craftsmanship is a sensory realm, and just as a wild stitch can be more attractive than a neatly aligned seam the heart may throb more for rough nonconformity than for pristine fabric. The flavor found only in old items interwoven with the thread of time and the newest model loom that produces exactly what you want are both infinitely precious partners.” We couldn’t agree more.

 

Koromo boro jacket

Below this tattered patched jacket read a sign “This 100 year old fabric is Aizome (Indigo dyed cloth). The well used areas of the fabric are where it has been hand sewn over and over again. The clothes have been made out of this fabric as is. In times when things were scarce in Japan even a little fabric was considered precious. This preciousness is found in this cloth.”

Koromo Japanese denim

 

Koromo bamboo shirt Japanese menswear

 

Koromo Japanese denim blazer

 

Koromo Japanese indigo tie-dye baseball shirt

 

Koromo Japanese menswear

 

Japanese embroidered teeshirt

 

Koromo sashiko

Traditional Japanese stitching technique, sashiko, used on button detail.

Japanese menswear sashiko

 

Koromo boro ties

Last but not least, live shibori-style tie-dyeing at Liberty Fairs by Goodlife Clothing.

indigo dye

 

indigo tie-dye

 

indigo tie-dye

 

For more photos, style inspiration, and information on denim and indigo techniques check out the Denim Therapy Tumblr and Pinterest pages.

All photographs credited to the author.

Emily B. McIntosh

 

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Posted Sep 01 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

MiH Jeans Spring 2014 Has Us Longing For Sunny Days


Our intense longing for spring began yesterday with our printed denim post, but now that we’ve caught a glimpse of the MiH Jeans spring lookbook, we’re head over heels and ready to leave this winter weather behind. Aside from looking like a blast, the shoot is packed with spring fashion we’re coveting, from super wide leg jeans to overalls and shibori dyed tops.

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View the full lookbook at Honestly WTF.

—Michelle Christina Larsen

 

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Posted Jan 31 2014 in Denim Fashion » Lookbooks
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