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WWD News: Lanvin Stages Spring Show in Tokyo, Pierre Bergé Establishes AIDS Fund, DailyCandy to Launch E-Commerce, Memo Pad: Gentlemen’s Ball, Maybe Not…

Lanvin Stages Spring Show in Tokyo



Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz. Photo by Yuki Kasuga

TOKYO ??” Lanvin melded the worlds of fashion and sport here by staging a fashion show at the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo stadium. 


The Lanvin spring show at the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo stadium in Tokyo.

Wednesday night??™s event, a reprise of Lanvin??™s spring women??™s and men??™s collections, attracted more than 1,000 guests, including Kanye West, who camped out in the second row with his entourage and attempted to conceal his identity with a black hooded sweatshirt and a scarf covering his face. Ai Tominaga opened the women??™s portion of the show in a black asymmetric dress with a ruffled collar and a glove on one arm. 

Creative director Alber Elbaz said he and his staff considered several potential locations for the show, including museums and temples, but the sumo stadium appealed to him for two reasons: He??™s a fan of the sport, and he couldn??™t miss the chance to break a cultural taboo. 

???First of all, I love sumo,??? the designer shared over breakfast at the Park Hyatt Hotel. ???I watch it on TV, and I think that sumo wrestlers are gorgeous.??? 

lanvin3Traditionally, women are prohibited from entering the stadium??™s center ring, which is considered a sacred space. But Lanvin managed to secure permission to build a runway and scaffolding on top of that very spot. A gyoji, or sumo referee, clad in emerald silk, read from a scroll to announce the start of the show. 

Elbaz said he sees parallels between sports and fashion. By way of explanation, he also made a dig at celebrities looking to leverage their fame into clothing lines. 

???They may think that all it takes to do fashion is to be famous,??? he said. ???[But] you have to devote your life. You have to work hard. Imagine if I tell you I want to be a ballerina??¦.I mean, I cannot even jump two centimeters, but can I be in the opera and jump? No. So I let the ballerina dance and the chef cook and the actor act and designer design.??? 

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Pierre Berg?© Establishes AIDS Fund


PARIS ??” Pierre Berg?© is setting up a fund to help fight AIDS. 

The late Yves Saint Laurent??™s longtime companion and business partner has pledged 10 million euros, or $14.9 million at current exchange rates, over five years to France??™s largest private anti-AIDS group, Sidaction, over which he presides. 

Part of the funds will be raised between Nov. 17 and Nov. 19 at a charity auction of furniture and works of art from the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berg?© collection, expected to fetch up to 4 million euros, or $5.7 million. 

An earlier auction in February raised 373.5 million euros, or $484.6 million, from the sale of 700 items collected by Saint Laurent and Berg?©.


DailyCandy to Launch E-Commerce


NEW YORK ??” DailyCandy is jumping into the online private sale phenomenon. 

The company, long known for its shopping, trend and travel recommendations and offers both on the Web and in newsletters, will next month launch e-commerce with the introduction of a members-only site, Swirl, Sample Sales by DailyCandy. 

The new site will host three sales a week on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Each sale will last 72 hours, and include both established and up-and-coming names in apparel and accessories like Leifsdottir, Leigh + Luca and Lauren Merkin. While the two sites are positioned as separate entities, DailyCandy editors will choose the goods sold on Swirl. The new site will be based in Los Angeles, and DailyCandy editor in chief Eve Epstein will leave her post to become creative director of Swirl. Swirl will soft launch Nov. 16 to a group of DailyCandy subscribers, and officially launch in January. 

???We have an immensely loyal following,??? said DailyCandy founder Dany Levy of the company??™s 3 million subscribers. ???They trust us with the things we recommend.??? 

Private online sale sites have been one of the most popular growth sectors of retail in the few years. Sites such as Gilt Groupe, Ideeli, Rue La La and others have acquired thousands of members and attracted significant investment. This week, Rue La La was acquired by GSI Commerce Inc. for $350 million (GSI, ironically, is doing the backend operations for Swirl). Even established retailers have broken into the online private sale race, with both Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue holding them. 

DailyCandy, founded in 2000, has some advantages over its competitors in launching e-commerce with a built-in network of subscribers to market the sales to and a trusted editorial voice to hand-pick designers. However, one disadvantage it faces is that the Swirl sales are only three days a week ??” Gilt, Rue La La and similar sites offer deals daily, and some offer products beyond fashion, including travel, electronics and home goods. 

???This is like putting the Oprah factor into something,??? said NPD Group??™s Marshal Cohen. ???In fact, it??™s more educational than promotional. The value DailyCandy will bring to the party is they??™ll educate their community. They??™re going to have experts help their consumers make decisions.??? 

So why did DailyCandy wait so long to launch e-commerce? ???Everything we do, we research very carefully, and want to be in the right place at the right time,??? said Levy. ???Editorial is a very different animal than retail. For us to claim we could do it [too soon] would have been a sad mistake.??? 

DailyCandy was purchased by Comcast in 2008 for a reported $125 million after former AOL chief operating officer Bob Pittman flipped his stake in the site. Now, DailyCandy is part of a media conglomerate that includes Fandango, Style Network, and E! It services 28 different e-mail newsletters covering 13 cities as well as subjects like kids, travel and weddings. DailyCandy launched a Web site in September that includes archived content from past years and new information from each city and subject in one place. (Readers also have a chance to comment back to the editors in a public forum.) 


Memo Pad: Gentlemen’s Ball, Maybe Not… 

by WWD Staff

Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher at the GQ Gentlemen??™s Ball Tuesday night. Photo by Courtesy Photo

Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher at the GQ Gentlemen??™s Ball Tuesday night. Photo by Courtesy Photo


GOOD DEEDS, BAD DEEDS: Attendance was considered an act of kindness Wednesday night at GQ??™s Gentlemen??™s Ball held at New York??™s Edison Ballroom. ???You??™re all gentlemen tonight, because you showed up here instead of watching the Yankees win game one of the World Series,??? said Josh Lucas to a crowd that included Ashton Kutcher, Adrian Grenier, Akon, Kid Cudi, Michael Bastian, Mark Wahlberg, Jamie Burke and Thom Browne, along with Demi Moore, Chanel Iman, Emmy Rossum, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Universal Motown??™s Sylvia Rhone and a slew of fashion elite. (The Yanks lost later that evening.) The event honored several do-gooder guests supported by GQ??™s Gentlemen??™s Fund, which helps advertisers enter partnerships with celebrity ambassadors and nonprofits. But other guests??™ antics weren??™t so gentlemanly. Akon, who performed several songs including his cover of Michael Jackson??™s ???Wanna Be Startin??™ Somethin??™,??? asked one woman what color her nether regions were. His crassness didn??™t deter Kutcher, Moore and others from dancing with the rap star. And though Kid Cudi was gentlemanly enough to ask GQ publisher Pete Hunsinger if he wanted a shot from the bar before dinner, Cudi later excused his performance to the crowd by saying, ???I??™m a little tipsy.??? Finally, while most guests wore their cocktail finest from Burberry (Restoin-Roitfeld, Lucas), Ralph Lauren (Iman), GQ fund sponsor Nautica (Grenier) and Calvin Klein (Kutcher, Cudi), Wahlberg opted for a more casual jeans and a T-shirt, as he arrived straight from a movie shoot. Attendees gave one suit in particular a standing ovation: Master Sergeant William ???Spanky??? Gibson, who, dressed in uniform, picked up an honorary award from the Pat Tillman Foundation and Ketel One vodka.

??” Stephanie D. Smith


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Posted Oct 30 2009 in Uncategorized

WWD News: Balmain Builds on Its Strengths, Dockers Aims to Revitalize Khakis, Streaming Louis Vuitton… Blue Clues…,Anthropologie on TV…

Balmain Builds on Its Strengths

by Katya Foreman

From WWD ISSUE 10/01/2009


Christophe Decarnin (Photo by Stephane Fuegere)

Take Balmain??™s Christophe Decarnin, whose trademark peaked jackets and fiercely sexy minidresses have catapulted him and the French label to new heights, with its show today one of the hottest of the week. 

Now, the privately held company is working behind the scenes to bring the business in line with the buzz around the name ??” what some have even dubbed ???Balmania.??? 

Next month, Balmain??™s two-story flagship on the Rue Fran?§ois 1er will be shuttered for two months for a top-to-bottom renovation. And chairman and chief executive Alain Hivelin is reviewing the Paris house??™s network of licenses, guiding certain partners in line with Decarnin??™s rock ??™n??™ roll aesthetic, and phasing out those who don??™t cut the mustard. 

The brand signed a women??™s footwear license with Giuseppe Zanotti, effective since the spring 2009 season, which grew out of a runway collaboration stretching back to Decarnin??™s first show in 2006. A men??™s shoe line could be added soon. New for next season is a capsule eyewear collection developed with Oliver Peoples. 

In total, Balmain has around 20 licenses in Asia and the Middle East, including scarves, small leather goods, ties and men??™s tailoring. In an interview, Hivelin, who became the house??™s main shareholder in July 2005, declined to give sales figures, but said Balmain has been profitable since 2005 and logged total annual sales growth of around 60 percent the last three years. 

Click here to read the full article


Dockers Aims to Revitalize Khakis


From WWD ISSUE 10/01/2009

The brand??™s new colored soft khaki program

The Levi Strauss & Co.-owned brand, whose classic chinos debuted in 1986 and became the unofficial pant of casual Fridays in the Nineties, is betting the renewed focus on its heritage business will not only stanch slumping sales but also redefine how male consumers wear and think about khakis. 

???The brand is going back to focusing on what we do best: khaki pants for men,??? said Jim Calhoun, president of Dockers. ???Our global team is working hard to make men love their khakis again. The task is big. We??™ve got to turn around a declining category ??” but as the leader, we??™re the only brand for the job.??? 

Dockers continues to be the top selling casual pants brand in the U.S. but receipts have slumped in recent years. Levi Strauss does not break out sales for the brand, but noted in company documents that its performance has been ???disappointing??? in recent years. Dockers products, which include men??™s and women??™s bottoms, tops and a range of licensed categories, accounted for 21 percent of Levi Strauss net sales in 2006 and only 18 percent of total net sales, or about $792 million, in 2008. 

Click here to read the full article


Streaming Louis Vuitton… Blue Clues…



by WWD Staff

From WWD ISSUE 10/01/2009

jeremy-scott-and-giled-deaconTHE ENGLISH ARE COMING: ???It was Worth, an Englishman, who created couture in France,???Pierre Berg?© declared Tuesday night in Paris, as he presented an award as president of France??™s National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts to Giles Deacon, the second British designer in a row to win the accolade. Thanks to a grant of 160,000 euros, or $233,470 at current exchange, Deacon is staging his spring fashion show in Paris on Oct. 8. ???It??™s a huge honor for me,??? said Deacon. ???Hopefully it??™s going to be a great season.??? Fellow Brit Gareth Pugh won the accolade in 2008. Jeremy Scott was among the guests at the 20th-anniversary award ceremony, before flying back to Los Angeles to work on his new Adidas collection. Scott said he has also designed a special edition bag for French luxury goods company Longchamp to celebrate the association??™s anniversary.

LIVE WIRE: Louis Vuitton is courting its online fans and giving them a virtual front-row seat at its next fashion show. The French luxury house said it would stream its women??™s ready-to-wear show on its Facebook page on Wednesday at 2:30 p.m. CEST. Viewers will be able to comment on the show as it happens. Following the event, footage of the show will be available on demand for 24 hours. Vuitton, which created its Facebook account in July, claims to have been the first luxury brand to take to tweeting.

BLUE CLUES: Jeans on the Hussein Chalayan runway? What a concept. The London-based designer plans to carry on with his collaboration with J Brand for a second season and present styles on the runway at his show on Sunday. The expanded collection for spring includes stretch capri leggings, loose-fit chinos and city shorts.

WYCLEF??™s NEW SHOES: Timberland and Wyclef Jean are making music together. The apparel and footwear company partnered with the Grammy Award-winning musician and his Y?©le Haiti Foundation to inspire consumers to take action in protecting the environment. The pair collaborated on a 16-boot footwear collection for men, women and children, slated to launch in late November under the Timberland Earthkeepers line. For every pair sold, $2 will be donated to the Y?©le Haiti Foundation to support reforestation in Haiti. Jean will celebrate the collection tonight at WNYC??™s the Greene Space in New York.

Click here to read the full article


Memo Pad: Anthropologie on TV…

by WWD Staff

From WWD ISSUE 10/01/2009

IN THE HUNT: Inspiration first struck producerFenton Bailey walking past an Anthropologie store with his producing partner; the two casually remarked what a great basis it would make for a television show. The very next day, Bailey read a piece in the Philadelphia Inquirer about Keith Johnson, the globetrotting buyer at large for the stores, and he knew he had his concept. 

The result was ???Man Shops Globe,??? an eight-episode series premiering on the Sundance Channel on Oct. 7, following Johnson??™s eye at flea markets and artisans in France, Turkey and South Africa, among others. At a launch party at Anthropologie??™s Rockefeller Plaza store Tuesday night, Glen Senk, chief executive officer of the retailer??™s parent, Urban Outfitters Inc., said getting there meant getting assurances the project wouldn??™t undermine the brand??™s integrity. ???We had been contacted many times,??? he said, ???but we had an instant connection with the team,??? including directorJeremy Simmons. Senk described Johnson, who is also his longtime companion, as ???shy ??” not a reality TV person. It was insightful for them to see what the show could be.??? 

Said Johnson, ???I??™ve been doing this for so long, it actually gave me a little bit more energy. I saw the world through Jeremy??™s eyes.??? 

???Man Shops Globe??? has already been picked up for another season, which begins filming shortly. 

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–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Oct 01 2009 in Uncategorized
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