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Japanese Indigo at Liberty Fair: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo


The second batch of discoveries from our jaunt through Liberty Fairs is indigo-drenched. Indigo is a native plant in Japan and the history of Indigo dye on the small eastern island runs deep, back to the 10th century. The technique boomed during the Edo period (1192-1333) due to the dye’s ability to cling well to cotton, the popular fabric of the lower classes at the time. By the early 1900’s almost 1400 acres were covered in indigo crop in Japan, now a mere 70 acres. The process of dyeing naturally is laborious, time-consuming and is carried on by skilled artisans. Traditionally Sukumo leaves, wheat bran, sake, hardwood ash and lime are combined in vats and fermented to produce the ocean hue. In Japanese culture the dye has been believed to contain protective properties from warning off insects and snakes in fields to sparing firemen burns. Out of the hundreds of booths at Liberty Fairs two stood out to us: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo.

Blue Blue Japan began in 1993 and designer Kenji Tsuji has been designing there since 2006. His designs usually contain bold, graphic interpretations of traditional Japanese motifs and patterns (waves, the sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc.). When his pieces aren’t emblazoned with beautiful images they are simple and highlight the beauty of traditional indigo dye. Many of the shirts are made with a tie dye technique called Shibori or have a dip dyed ombre fade. The construction of the garments is based on farm work wear. You can find Blue Blue Japan products at Union Made Goods, Mr Porter, and Hickoree’s. Read more about Kenji at mrporter.com.

 

Blue Blue Japan

Designer Kenji Tsuji

Japanese patch jacket boro

 

embroidered bomber

Embroidered satin bomber in blue and black

Japanese wave park

Wave parka

Blue Blue Japan indigo ombre sweatshirt

Indigo ombre sweatshirt

Blue Blue Japan

 

Bue Blue Japan dyed shirt

 

Koromo also had our hearts racing and mouths gaping. Koromo’s designs are focused on traditional Japanese sewing and patching techniques. The collection shown at Liberty Fair was heavy on boro patchwork and sashiko stitching. In the words of the company, “Craftsmanship is a sensory realm, and just as a wild stitch can be more attractive than a neatly aligned seam the heart may throb more for rough nonconformity than for pristine fabric. The flavor found only in old items interwoven with the thread of time and the newest model loom that produces exactly what you want are both infinitely precious partners.” We couldn’t agree more.

 

Koromo boro jacket

Below this tattered patched jacket read a sign “This 100 year old fabric is Aizome (Indigo dyed cloth). The well used areas of the fabric are where it has been hand sewn over and over again. The clothes have been made out of this fabric as is. In times when things were scarce in Japan even a little fabric was considered precious. This preciousness is found in this cloth.”

Koromo Japanese denim

 

Koromo bamboo shirt Japanese menswear

 

Koromo Japanese denim blazer

 

Koromo Japanese indigo tie-dye baseball shirt

 

Koromo Japanese menswear

 

Japanese embroidered teeshirt

 

Koromo sashiko

Traditional Japanese stitching technique, sashiko, used on button detail.

Japanese menswear sashiko

 

Koromo boro ties

Last but not least, live shibori-style tie-dyeing at Liberty Fairs by Goodlife Clothing.

indigo dye

 

indigo tie-dye

 

indigo tie-dye

 

For more photos, style inspiration, and information on denim and indigo techniques check out the Denim Therapy Tumblr and Pinterest pages.

All photographs credited to the author.

Emily B. McIntosh

 

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Posted Sep 01 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

Denim at Liberty Fair: Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount


The Denim Therapy team’s Market Week tour continued at Liberty Fairs held at Pier 94. The space was enormous with over one hundred booths to cover. We scoured the long aisles and prioritized. Our top priority?  Denim. Our featured picks from the show are all Japanese and American brands including Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount.

Feltraiger is a Brooklyn-based brand focused on making products you can pass down from generation to generation.  Their customer base ranges from hardcore motorcyclists to anyone inspired by American subcultures of the 20th century. Feltraiger’s new Core collection features their bestselling basics. We’re fans of the Destitute Vest in indigo available for Fall 2015.

Feltraiger motorcycle
Th co-founder’s motorcycle parked in front of the new collection.

Feltraiger denim vest
Destitute vest in indigo.

Kato jeans are made of Japanese denim, designed in Kyoto, and manufactured in Los Angeles. Kato was started by Hiroshi Kato in 1996 and has become one of our favorites. We favor the immaculate construction and details such as the diagonal belt loop and selvedge coin pocket. Highlights from the Spring 2016 line are the 13 oz. Raw Slim jean and a 7 oz Shawl Collar Blazer. Their leather patch has also been updated for the first time since the brand’s inception.

Kato Japanese denim

Kato Japanese denim

Kato japanese denim blazer
Perfect distressing detail on the hem of the shawl-style blazer lapel.

Fullcount denim is made in Okayama mills in Japan and was one of the first brands to start using Zimbabwe cotton back in 1992. Fullcount is here to stay, check out a peak of their Spring 2016 offerings below.

Fullcount Japanese denim\

Fullcount Japanese denim
Rust-looking wash on Fullcount jeans.

Fullcount Japanese denim

Fullcount zimbabwe chambray
Boro-like stitching detail on a chambray shirt.

All photos credited to the author.

—Emily B. McIntosh

 

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Posted Aug 24 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

Denim Dude’s Book Launch at Loren


With Men’s Fashion Week came a flurry of activity here in New York. Amy Leverton left London behind and came stateside to promote her book Denim Dudes. Amy has worked in the industry for ten years and is currently the Director of Denim and Youth Culture at WGSN. For Denim Dudes Amy traveled the world photographing and interviewing eccentric denimheads. She chronicled the most interesting styles and global trends in denim cult culture. The book is stocked in most book stores and is also available on Amazon. The New York book launch was hosted by Loren Cronk at Loren in Greenpoint and we couldn’t endure the thought of missing it. The storefront doubles as a workshop where Loren still designs and constructs many jeans by hand. The small shop was packed tight with denimheads on a humid night in Brooklyn and we couldn’t have dreamt of a better venue.

Denim Dudes Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk Juki machine

Loren Cronk
Very amazing vintage jackets for sale.

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk
Sewing patterns, bicycles, and colored lights hanging from the ceiling.

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

–Emily B. McIntosh

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Posted Aug 13 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

NY Market Week: Edwin’s E.N.D. at Project


After the exciting commencement of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, came the rush of New York Market Week where designers and brands showed off their freshest designs and samples to retailers in showrooms across the city.

We started  our week at Project New York and our very first stop was E.N.D. denim. We had a brief glimpse of the E.N.D. denim line at the Denim Expo hosted by BPD Washhouse in June. E.N.D. is the new offshoot of the venerable Japanese denim brand Edwin (E.N.D. is an acronym of Edwin ‘N Denim). This sub-brand is so new that at this point that their digital footprint is almost nonexistent so we were lucky to have a quick chat with the designer, Yutaka Endo, and get a closer look at the collection at Project.

Highlights of the collection include denim at an entry-level price point, light chambray shirts, hoodies, and super soft polo shirts. All of the pieces feature one or two of E.N.D.’s signature motifs: the mizuhiki or the asanoha pattern. The mizuhiki knot is a bow traditionally used during gift-giving. The asanoha is an auspicious,  abstract hemp leaf pattern. Lookout for the release of E.N.D. in the next year and check back at the Denim Therapy blog for more details on the official launch. If you are in the Brooklyn area you can stop by NOS Boutique in Dumbo to buy a select assortment of E.N.D. teeshirts and men’s jeans.

E.N.D. edwin asanoha
Traditional asanoha pattern stitched into the pocket of a pair of men’s jeans.

japanese denim E.N.D. women's denim
Details on a pair of jeans from the women’s line, including a red mizuhiki symbol embroidered on back pocket and peach fabric detail at waist.

E.N.D. denim hoodie asanohara
Asanohara pattern on the hood of a dark indigo hoodie.

edwin-chambrayshirt

E.N.D. Edwin japanese denim chambray

E.N.D. denim mizuhiki

Edwin denim
The roots of E.N.D. Edwin jeans with classic arcuate.

Emily B. McIntosh

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Posted Jul 31 2015 in Denim News » Events » Reviews: Brand
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