“The ascent of New York menswear label Public School hasn’t been the bump-free upward glide that their much-buzzed-about status would suggest. BoF sat down with designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, and stylist Eugene Tong, whose expert touch has helped put the young label’s fresh mix of sportswear and tailoring on the fashion radar, to discuss the brand’s rebirth.
“I think people give me more credit than is due,” says Eugene Tong, senior style director at Details magazine, who styles the presentations of the burgeoning New York menswear label Public School. Tong is being humble. In fact, the fashion editor and stylist is arguably the quiet force behind the ascent of what is one of America’s most promising young fashion brands.
When it comes to womenswear, stylists with a sharp editor’s eye have long been one of the most potent weapons in a designer’s arsenal. Carine Roitfeld (Tom Ford, during his Gucci years), Melanie Ward (Helmut Lang) and Venetia Scott (Marc Jacobs) are amongst the most prominent examples, whose personal style and unerring eye have helped showcase a designer’s vision to maximum advantage. But on the menswear front, the phenomenon is less common.
Tong is an especially rare case: a consultant and collaborator who both personifies the label’s ideal customer and happens to be a leading tastemaker, known for having his finger on the pulse of the menswear market and composing compelling looks that a wide range of men want to wear…” (Read more)
At Project NY and then again at Project Las Vegas, the men’s denim brand 3rd & Army seduced our eyes with three bold styles that exude rock’n'roll and sex appeal. It’s no coincidence that they make an impact at first glance: Industry authority Matt Atkinson (who founded the brand in September 2012) and all associates in the super-collective have worked for major US brands throughout the years. The relatively new project (100% made in LA) packs a powerful punch thanks to its experienced design and marketing team.
The brand DNA is taken from the quintessential California lifestyle. “Our collection speaks from our life experiences through the doors of 3rd & Army. Our clothing is an expression and a combined statement of classic music, fine art, vintage fashion, and a modern lifestyle in an original way,” says the brand. We expect only great things from these guys. Check out our favorite pieces below.
Below: The tapered leg Ranchand in camo. 10 oz woven jaquarded yarn camo denim with traditional loose top and tapering leg shape to a narrow bottom. Includes antique hardware and packaging, signature Z-stitch back pockets, reinforced pocket facings, utility watch pocket, signature chain wallet loop, and newsprint inside pocketing.
Below: The tapered leg Ranchand in grease wash. Japanese red selvedge 14 oz premium red selvedge denim with traditional loose top and tapering leg shape to a narrow bottom. Antique hardware and packaging, signature Z-stitch back pockets, reinforced pocket facings, utility watch pocket, signature chain wallet loop, and newsprint inside pocketing.
Below: The straight leg Blacksmith in indigo wash. 11.75 oz organic Italian Candiani denim in a straight leg traditional five pocket fit with flat felt side seams, workwear detailing, buckle back, spade workwear pockets, reinforced pocket facing, wallet chain keyhole detail, antique hardware and trim, multiple stitching construction, and real hide branded leather patch.
Visit 3rd & Army online to learn more.
Photos by Raffael Flores-Contreras.
Tags: 3rd & Army, California style, Japanese denim, made in america, made in la, Made in USA, magic market week, men's jeans, mens denim, menswear denim, project las vegas, Selvage Denim, selvedge denim
The thing we love most about trade shows like PROJECT are how up-close we can get to the denim. We can inspect the fabric hand, design details, and special components that set brands apart from one another. Besides their adorable mini-jeans, 3×1 was equipped with the particulars to keep us around their booth for a while, from their top notch Japan-sourced denim to their made-in-the-USA finishes.
Slim fit raw denim 12oz 2% stretch green caste selvedge denim from Kurabo, Japan.
White low rise standard straight let jeans made of 12 oz white selvedge denim from Kurabo Japan. These jeans feature a vintage stone wash that results in a soft hand.
Black coated slim fit 12.5oz black selvedge denim from Kaihara Japan. These jeans feature a coated finish, which results in a very cool reception of light and gradual wearing that will make your jeans truly unique.
Photos by Raffael Flores-Contreras
—Raffael Flores-Contreras & Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: black jeans, coated jeans, custom jeans, Japanese denim, made in america, made in new york, Made in USA, raw denim, Selvage Denim, selvedge denim, white jeans
This season, the ever-innovative Jeff Shafer of Agave Denim is bringing the men’s denim line to a new level. Their men’s jeans feature novelty selvage trimmings, a unique silhouette with an emphasis on flawless fit and an underlying theme of “respecting the textiles themselves”. Our favorites? One is the Harp—a slouchy tapered leg jean in 12oz Italian denim with a herringbone texture, reminiscent of the texture found on mens industrial workwear. Everything is thought of, down to the hand-stamped English brittle leather patch.
Our second pick, the Rocker classic tapered leg in Japanese true indigo .10 oz denim. They feature a tailored look that translates well from casual wear to a more formal environment (if you’re the kind of dude who gets to wear jeans to work).
Finally, the Maverick slim cut straight leg jean is made on an Old Glory Red, White & Blue cone mill white oak shuttle loom, featuring patriotic selvage to boot. This textile is also known as Heritage vintage denim. It’s all made in America (LA, specifically), and we think it’s safe to say these pieces are setting a new standard for the men’s denim industry.
—Photos & write-up by Raffael Flores-Contreras
Tags: agave denim, denim for men, made in america, men's jeans, mens denim, Selvage Denim, selvedge denim
Rising Sun & Co. is a quaint Los Angeles haberdashery and bespoke denim maker who recently partnered with Nordstrom and GQ Magazine for a curated pop-up shop online and in-store. The latest collaboration with Barney’s New York features Rising Sun’s “Reliable” Fit (straight fit/selvage denim with special back pocket design, available in five separate washes), Rising Sun’s “Straight Razor” fit (selvage denim, with natural heritage pocketing) and Rising Sun’s “Ranch Hand” jacket. Established in 2006 by denim craftsman Mike Hodis, the Rising Sun line consists of premium denim, tees, shirts, outerwear and accessories, as well as recreated period footwear. The collection is expected to debut at the Barney’s New York Madison Avenue location, and online on Wednesday, November 21.
Like what you see? You can grab Rising Sun‘s
Agave Denim is coming back strong for spring in both the men’s and women’s lines, with their signature rich colors and innovative denim fabrics (remember their gorgeous fall 2011 line?). Husband and wife team Jeff & Lauren Shafer took their inspiration palette from the Sea of Cortez and trips they made to Baja in the ’60s and ’70s. The dream vacation inspiration shines through in delicious hues and resort-esque styling. The “West Coast Luxury” motto of the spring line leaves behind age restrictions and trend-chasing for something more universally applicable (and appealing): “ones inner confidence and ability to enjoy the simple beauty of life.”
They source only the finest Japanese, Italian or USA-made Supima cotton denims and luxury fabrics and work with select boutique mills to design exclusive fabrics. With Jeff’s denim-obsessed eye for unique, high quality textiles and Lauren’s intense pattern making background and precise fitting fanaticism, the two of them have created a line that redefines the spring wardrobe (or maybe just reinforces what it should have been all along).
Keep up with Agave online and on facebook, and stay tuned for some exclusive inspiration boards right from the design offices of Lauren & Jeff Shafer…
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: agave denim, Italian denim, Japanese denim, jeff shafer, lauren shafer, made in america, mens denim, spring 2012 lookbook, supima cotton, womens denim
We get really excited when we’re writing about Mister Freedom. Maybe it’s their irresistible photography, saturated-yet-flawlessly- vintage-looking color stories, attention to detail from the top to the bottom of each denim garment, or the rugged Americana aesthetic. Whatever’s seducing us, we never get bored of stopping by their website to see what well-dressed gentlemen will be treated to with each new release. This time, we’re enchanted by the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Chambray shirts: A slim fit men’s shirt in a bright palette of earthy, yet powerful hues, contrast details, available in solids and stripes.
But their visual appeal is just part of the reason they’re special. Check out the story behind their production:
“This Sportswear collection is all MADE in USA, an humble effort to keep factories busy at home, and to spend hard earned $ locally… We chose NOS (New Old Stock, aka dead stock) fabrics for a lot of the items, selected from our collected stock of American vintage selvedged textiles. Not the easiest approach to manufacturing, since factories dread small batches, eclectic instructions, mixed fabric width and time consuming specific cut/sew…We took the risks of the high road, and hope some will appreciate the efforts.”
While the description on the website is lengthy, if you read it, you’ll see that Mister Freedom has a rare and intimate understanding of their customer, of their fabrics, fits, and mission. We love to see companies that maintain this standard of old fashioned service and personal touch.
This shirt retails at $199.95, and you can own one by calling (323) 653-2014 or emailing email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org (while they last).
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: Americana, Chambray Shirt, colored chambray, Denim Menswear, denim workshirt, made in america, Mister Freedom, pinstripe