Between London, Paris, and Milan, there was a whirlwind of denim to keep up with, but we’re making it easy for you by sharing our top 10 favorite denim collections. From Balenciaga’s broken front row bench (Anna Wintour had to stand!) , Gareth Pugh’s models in caged dresses, and Alexander McQueen’s use of lace head pieces,Spring 2012 European Fashion Weeks took more risks, exuded romance and signaled a return to the art behind couture that industry faves like Prabal Gurung craves so much. Designers are taking chances and we like what we’re seeing (well not all of it but that’s the point of this post isn’t it?).
In London, we love Henry Holland’s cloud-like look of bleach splatters on the high-waisted skinny jeans (also shown in another color scheme of peaches and cream). The color palette is pastel but with an edge, as the colors aren’t dulled down but rather pop out. The lavender high-waisted skinny jeans come with an almost animal-like printed spot on them, which have a much more nighttime feel than the bleached jeans.
Marques’Almeida certainly stood out during LFW, if that was even possible. Their take on frayed and ripped jeans and repurposed denim—in this case jeans that look like a DIY project gone out of control—is both visually interesting and creative. The creations exude a tribal nature while exerting a sense of raw rebellion. We hesitate to think the collection is actually wearable, but we give kudos for this entry into the substantial use of denim in a collection.
Paris Fashion Week definitely had a denim fest worth crushing over. Balmain took coated denim to a new level of class by pairing it with light-wash denim for a pantsuit as well as a futuristic denim mini dress that we absolutely fell in love with! We mean after all, if the world is ending in 2012, this is what we want to be wearing!
Isabel Marant was all over the place (in a good way) at PFW with patchwork denim, more bleached denim, and even a scribble print pair of skinny jeans. When you want the comfort of denim but want to take a chance that a pair of blue jeans just can’t give you, look here.
Keeping the ethnic and tribal print trend going strong, Paul & Joe brought a luxe version of the American South West to Paris mixing sheer lurex knits and metallic leather jeans in gold and bronze with bright silk ikat separates. This collection also marks the revival of hippie-chic embroidered jeans and handbags. Get into it because this is definitely the new take on bohemian style!
A decidedly architectural collection with exaggerated shoulders and bold proportions, Balenciaga‘s jeans for women were marked by frontal pleats and a cinched-waist; a method to exaggerate a woman’s slim waistline. A nod to the classic denim jacket, a satiny, over-sized re-interpretation in color blocks is embedded into the collection.
While Milan Fashion Week seemed to be marked by opulence, retro silhouettes and a return to couture, denim collections seemed to be conceived from another planet (save D&G‘s colorful handkerchief prints pieced with denim). The Dsquared2 collection for next season looks playfully urban chic. We love the pompom finish on the denim shorts, as well as the dip-dye boot cut jeans—looking dirty never looked so good!
Leave it to D&G to make foulard look so sexy! The whole collection centers on the print used as everything from killer shoes to blouses with denim details like pockets and full-on sleeves, to gorgeous summer evening dresses. This is the great au revoir to D&G as it will be combined with the Dolce & Gabbana brand after this season.
Also at MFW, the Bottega Veneta Men’s Collection combined leather and denim for a completely hot look, although we do have to say that we’d like to see those pieces as separates. We like the denim on denim style here also, which we think really only works thanks to the dark wash and minimalist detailing. The real eye-catcher was the tye-dye denim pants that almost look spray painted on. We love it on the runway but aren’t sure how well these would work in the real world.
In contrast to Roberto Cavalli‘s golden flapper dresses and couture detailing, his more casual Just Cavalli collection presented leather and metallic jeans styled in a Euro-Boho ensemble. There was some heavy-handed embroidery and pocket detailing, but the denim peasant blouse was one of the few separates we felt was worth a second look. The entire collection boldly displays some of the season’s hottest trends: python patterns and metallic jeans.
Images via Style.com.
While the Spring 2012 Fashion Weeks had some great looks, we hope designers such as Alber Elbaz, Hussein Chalayan, Stella McCartney and even Rick Owens will lend back their talents and generate new buzz for women’s denim. The relaunch of Kenzo in Paris, by the newly-appointed Creative Directors, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Co-Founders of Opening Ceremony) who garnered rave reviews for their colorful fishnet print collection, showed creations which could easily be reinterpreted into denim. We know designers are inspired by denim, so we hope we get to see the actual textile play a more dominant role next season.
—Elyssa Linden, Kathy Ng Hassan & Sandoval Gomez
Tags: Bottega Veneta, coated denim, D&G, Denim Menswear, denim shorts, dip dye denim, Dsquared, foulard prints, Henry Holland, high-waisted jeans, ikat prints, Isabel Marant, Just Cavalli, London Fashion Week, metallic jeans, Milan Fashion Week, patchwork denim, Roberto Cavalli, silk ikat separates, skinny jeans
Heny Holland has been busy with his H! by Henry Holland line, his House of Holland line and now his second collaboration with Levi’s. Levi’s and House of Holland have partnered up again on a small eight piece men’s and women’s collection for Spring/Summer 2010. The collection will be launched in February.
–Nikki Cho Russo
Tags: H! Henry Holland, Henry Holland, House of Holland, Levi's
Top White Tees
Posted WEDNESDAY APRIL 29, 2009
Topman t-shirt (NOT part of the designer collaboration)
Topman is launching its fourth project in which it invites a handful of designers to create a version of a wardrobe staple. Past projects have featured white shirts, sunglasses and black trousers. This time white T-shirts are getting the designer treatment from Richard Chai, Phillip Lim, Juun J, Henry Holland, JW Anderson and Christopher Shannon.
Anderson and Shannon were both selected to participate in the retailer??™s MAN show during the most recent London Fashion Week. The T-shirts will launch online and in a few select Topman locations, including New York and Oxford Circus, London, on May 28.
In addition, designer Antony Price has designed a second ???Priceless??? collection for Topman, which launches May 14. Price is best known for his fashion influence on Brian Ferry and Roxy Music, as well as David Bowie and Duran Duran. The retailer??™s affair with Eighties style shows no signs of cooling.
What good would fresh whites be without their partner in crime, deliciously dirty denims! Take a gander into some really kick-ass jeans for all the ??ber hip gentlemen out there.
Kicking Mule: Indigo Rocker Jeans, $275
Rope dyed dark rinsed raw indigo selvage denim jeans. Low rise fit with a skinny thigh that tapers from the knee to the bottom hem. Selvage coin pocket, button fly, made in japan.
Unconditional: Blackish Drop Crotch Zip Jeans, $279
Faded black drop crotch straight leg jeans with zippers at sides of legs. Can be zipped for skinny leg. 5 pocket styling with additional zip closure coin pocket.
Humor Jeans: Drop Crotch Jean, $111.83
One wash slim leg Humor drop crotch jean with contrasting yellow stitching and distinctive white covered rivets. These are 4 pocket jeans and fasten with a button fly and embossed shank button. Belt loops are oversized and back pockets positioned low, there??™s a white leather Humor ???radiohead??™ brand patch on the waistband at the back right hand size.
Lad Musician: Denim Pants 501, $345
Lad musician finds inspiration from the rock and rollers of times past and present – so you can bet these pants have a sleek and slim cut to them. very soft denim in 100% cotton. Low crotch cut available in white bleach.
And I can not leave out some amazing kicks by Alejandro Ingelmo. Check these out!
Alejandro Ingelmo: Woven Low Top, $518.92
Expertly built from the finest leathers and the most durable of sole units by the best Italian craftsman, the New York based designer comes through once again ??“ you will be hard pushed to find sneakers of this quality.The toe is smooth black Italian Nappa leather with an amazing woven silver metallic leather side panel. These low tops have contrasting off white vulcanised rubber sole and bright white laces.
Happy shopping guys!
–Nikki Cho Russo
Tags: Alejandro Ingelmo, Antony Price, Christopher Shannon, Henry Holland, Juun J, JW Anderson, Kicking Mule, Phillip Lim, Richard Chai, Topman, Unconditional