Opening Friday is FIT’s exhibition “American Beauty: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion”, curated by Patricia Mears, displays the craft and intricacies of dressmaking. The show runs through April 10th.
Emerging menswear brand Spurr, designed by Simon Spurr, will be going back to its’ roots of denim related sportswear and t-shirts at a lower price point, mostly made in Italy. The higher-end collection, named appropriately, Simon Spurr, will continue to have hand-finished suits, leathers and knits all made in Italy and France.
Juicy Couture is on a jet-setting quest to make the world more juicier. They are opening up a shop at Miami International Airport in December, then traveling north to open at JFK International Airport, continuing across the pond to Taiwan’s TaoYuan International Airport and then on to Athens Airport.
Read more of WWD highlights below.
–Nikki Cho Russo
FIT Show Looks at American Dressmaking
Dresses from Rodarte, Narciso Rodriguez and Adrian's design for Joan Crawford on display at the "American Beauty Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion" show. Photo by John Aquino
The incomplete cotton muslins on display in ???American Beauty: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion??? are the surest indication the Museum at FIT??™s newest show delves into the inner workings of design.
Custom patternmaker Nicolas Caito personally inspected the muslins on the mannequins for Thakoon, Proenza Schouler and Francisco Costa to be certain they were just so. That attention to detail was just what curator Patricia Mears was after for the museum??™s latest installment, which opens Friday and runs through April 10.
Rather than give a more predictable historic overview of American fashion, Mears has zeroed in on how the philosophy of beauty is relayed in the craft of dressmaking. During a preview of the exhibition Wednesday, she said, ???One of the things I wanted to do with this show was to not make it about sketching, diffusion lines, marketing or anything else. I wanted to show people who really know how to make clothes.???
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Emerging Brand Spurr Branches Out
Spurrs Spring presentation. Photo by Pasha Antonov
Spurr is branching into two collections at different pricing tiers in an effort to position itself for global distribution. The split, which will take effect for fall 2010, is the first strategic move since Tommy Fazio became president of the emerging brand designed by Simon Spurr.
Spurr will be a contemporary collection of denim-related sportswear such as T-shirts and jackets. The label is going back to its roots, having launched three years ago with jeans at Bergdorf Goodman, where Fazio was the men??™s fashion director. Spurr since has evolved into a full designer collection, but starting with the fall 2010 collections, the designer offerings will bear the new label, Simon Spurr. The Simon Spurr collection will feature hand-finished suits, leathers and knits, all made in Italy and France.
Spurr, the contemporary collection, will continue to be made mostly in Italy.
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Guez Brings New Blood To Dylan George
LOS ANGELES ??” Dylan George, the premium denim brand founded last year by Danny Guez, is looking to ignite growth with the addition of executive talent and the relaunch of its men??™s business.
Rick Spielberg joined Los Angeles-based Dylan George in October after a four-year run with Hudson, where he helped grow revenue from $9 million to $60 million as vice president. Before Hudson, Spielberg was president of Blue Holdings, which was founded by Guez??™s father, Paul, and where Danny met Spielberg before the younger Guez left to launch People??™s Liberation in 2004. At City of Commerce, Calif.-based Blue Holdings, Spielberg oversaw the denim brands Antik Denim and Taverniti So for two years.
Juicy Couture to Open Airport Shops
Rendering of the Juicy Couture shop in Miami International Airport. Photo by Courtesy Photo
The contemporary brand, which did $600 million in sales last year, plans to target customers when they travel, opening four stores at airports worldwide beginning in December. The first will launch in Miami International Airport??™s American Airlines terminal, followed by the British Airways terminal at New York??™s John F. Kennedy International Airport in January. In February, a Juicy store will open in the Taiwan TaoYuan International Airport??™s Terminal II through Juicy??™s Asian distribution partner, Lane Crawford.
The fourth shop, which is planned for a spring launch, will be in the Athens Airport Duty Free area. This store will open with the help of the brand??™s new partnership with Elmec Sport SA. The retail license and distribution agreement will allow the firm to retail all Juicy Couture collections, including apparel, accessories, footwear, children??™s wear, intimates and jewelry in Greece, Romania and Bulgaria through freestanding stores and select specialty retailers. The wholesale operation with Elmec will begin with the spring collection. The three-year deal expires on March 31, 2014, with an option to renew for another three years.
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Spring Men’s Suit Trend: Mixed Doubles
Fashion Scoops: Austrians in Tokyo… Anthropologie’s New Tie-Up…
TOD??™S IN THE SHADE: Tod??™s is about to fill one more gap in its lifestyle offerings. Just in time for cruise and Christmas shopping, the luxury goods brand will roll out a few styles of its new eyewear line to select Tod??™s flagships and opticians worldwide. The full range will debut in February. The capsule is comprised of 13 models for men and women, plus unisex ones, in acetate and metal, or combinations of the two. Colors include black, bronze, gold, silver and blush pink. Some styles are available in different sizes. The designs already have attracted fans such asJessica Alba, Freida Pinto, Jennifer Garner and Demi Moore. Retail prices for the Marcolin-produced eyewear range from $289 to $541.
FRIENDS OF MEN??™S: Men??™s wear veterans and young CFDA members came together to fete Robert Bryan??™s new men??™s wear tome, ???American Fashion Menswear.??? David Lauren stood in for Ralph Lauren, who wrote the foreword. The book combines historical images and recent looks from new American designers like Michael Bastian and Tim Hamilton ??” no doubt a result of the CFDA??™s involvement in the project. Scores of industry friends came to the Ace Hotel to congratulate Bryan. Diane von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein??™s Italo Zucchelli and Kevin Carrigan,Phillip Lim, Richard Chai and the duos behind Duckie Brown, Rag & Bone and Shipley & Halmos all paid their respects.
OUT THERE: Dysfashional, the conceptual fashion exhibition curated by Luca Marchetti and Emanuele Quinz, is set to present two new stages in Paris and Berlin. The avant-garde show, which does not feature any clothing, will include a video installation by Raf Simons and experimental exhibits by the likes of Maison Martin Margiela, Kostas Murkudis, Pierre Hardy and Damien Blotti??re. Up-and-coming Berlin-based designer Michael Sontag has conceived an interactive installation inspired by the dressing table. Parasite, a hybrid gallery-cum-store space that will feature a labyrinth of ???wallscapes??? designed by Bless, will showcase work by emerging artists and designers exploring the boundaries of contemporary fashion.
A Dysfashional fanzine was released for the Paris leg of the show, scheduled to run at the Passage du D?©sir until Nov. 29, with a German edition to follow for the Berlin session, to be housed in the city??™s Haus der Kulturen der Welt venue from June 18 to July 18. Both editions will then be bound to form a catalogue.
HER TURN: Damir Doma, a rising talent on the Paris men??™s wear scene, is turning his hand to women??™s wear, too. The Croatian designer plans to show his debut women??™s collection on the runway during Paris Fashion Week next March. Earlier this year, Doma opened a boutique in Paris on the Rue des Arquebusier in the Marais.
Tags: Ali Zedtwitz, American Fashion Menswear, Anthropolgie, Damien BlottiÃ¨re, Damir Doma, Danny Guez, Diptych, Dylan George, Dysfashional, Emanuele Quinz, F.I.T., Juicy Couture, Klaus MÃ¼hlbauer, Koi Suwannagate, Kostats Murkudis, Lawan, Luca Marchetti, Maison Martin Margiela, Pierre Hardy, Raf Simons, Rick Spielberg, Robert Bryan, Spurr, Tod's
As always, oki-ni is ahead of the curve and has freshly stocked new arrivals from Christian Peau, Raf Simons X Eastpak, Damir Doma sunglasses, Common Project and a line of HAVE TO BUY Raf Simons X Doc Martens and also his own line of beautiful sandals.
A newsletter from oki-ni:
We are very pleased and also rather relieved to eventually introduce to you a brand that we have been trying to bring to oki-ni for over 2 years now. Christian Peau is a company that specialise in premium quality leather and suedes and make a wide range of footwear, clothing and accessories from their spectacular hides. We fell in love with these boots around 4 seasons ago and have been tirelessly trying to bring them to you ever since. We can honestly say that we have never seen (or tried on) anything that comes close to the comfort, quality or the colour palette that these boots boast. A few of you may have come across this brand before but trying to track a pair down online (or even finding any info) is extremely tough, however, you can now sit back, order them and when they turn up, wear them like a slipper 12 hours a day.
We also have now had delivered this seasons installment of the Raf Simons for Eastpaks and a very interesting new option in the Damir Doma shades which we think are the shades of the season. Rounded off with some very happy looking Common Projects we??™re very happy with todays offer.
Hope you like it,
The oki-ni team
Christian Peau is a Japanese fashion house whose design is understood to bridge the gap between modern avant-garde and classical artisan-based fashion. Unlike many cutting edge Japanese designers that have emerged from the last 10 years, Peau’s is much more European in nature. His influences lie in the traditionl artisans from the early 1800s who were understood to be masters in their trade. Drawn from traditional shoemaking and leather master craftsmen, Christian Peau has reinvented the avant-garde in a modern and beautiful manner.
The emphasis is on handmade leather garments- each shoe is made by hand in Japan with an assortment of hand-stained,painted and washed leathers that are compounded and nailed together for a truly unique outcome.
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Raf Simons Eastpak
After three enjoyable seasons this is the very final collection of Raf Simons’ much sought after high fashion technical bags made in collaboration with Eastpak. The styling for ss09 is inspired by ‘Haute’ travel with a futuristic, modern approach to the romance of old fashioned travelling…
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Damir Doma Sunglasses
This is new kid on the block and Raf Simons prot?©g?©e Damir Doma??™s first time on oki-ni and we are loving his work. Part of his 4th collection and first time collaboration with Linda Farrow these sunglasses present a new take on the classic wayfarer.This style is part of a new line for SS09- ???Linda Farrow Projects??™…
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Inspired by fundamental architectures found in everyday objects, each Common Project product is infused with tailoring and executed using the finest materials and processes. The line endorses the companies dedication to basic footwear architecture and marks each shoe with a proprietary gold stamp on the heel…
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Do not forget to check out the rest or Raf Simons’ many collaborations showcased at oki-ni. His sandals are fantastic, deconstructed Doc Martens are genius, silver astronaut boots are future perfect! Let ‘s also not forget his great sunglass line in collaboration with Linda Farrow. I particularly dig the Linda Farrow X Raf Simons Metal Frame Sunglasses.
Raf Simons Show Sandal
White leather high sided sandals with two straps across the foot and a double elasticated heel panel. These are very distinctive, part winged/part gladiator style.
Raf Simons & Dr Martens Deconstructed Boot / Sandal
One part DM grunge, two parts chunky gladiator- we reckon these are THE sandals for the summer of 2009. Constructed in black and white patent with contrasting red stitching, these sandals combine a distinctive Raf Simons silhouette with trademark Dr Marten eyelets and air-ware sole.
Raf Simons & Dr Martens Classic Patent Sandal
An ankle high gladiator style limited edition sandal produced by Dr Martens in collaboration with Raf Simons. Combining the practicality of DM design with the forward stylings of Raf Simons these sandals feature a suede and soft leather foot bed with a high shine patent cutout sandal upper. Really truly essential shoes for summer.
Raf Simons Silver Astronaut Boot
This is the ???Astronaut??™ boot from Raf Simons SS09 catwalk collection.
Here is a beautifully constructed high-top shoe in a silver metallic finish with a lace and Velcro fastening. The back of the heel features an external pocket pouch with zip fastening. The interior is lined in soft cream leather and the laces are knitted. This is a classic piece with a great Raf Simons twist.
Linda Farrow X Raf Simons Metal Frame Sunglasses
Raf Simons for Linda Farrow vintage styled aviator shaped sunglasses constructed from fine gold metal silver piping with black rubber tubing and black opaque lenses. These are a really unusual design but manage top remain beautiful and really classic??¦
Raf Simons latest collaboration with Linda Farrow brings about a collection based on vintage glasses with folding metal arms, thin and faceted metal structures, mesh details, contrasting thin versus thick metal, matt black versus shiny black. Arms on the glasses have been inspired by Tiffany lamps, metal piping and over engineering.
Tags: Christian Peau, Common Project, Damir Doma, Linda Farrow, Raf Simons X Doc Martens, Raf Simons X Eastpak