2. When a silk tie just doesn’t make sense with your bleed-on-everything raw jeans, go all the way with this retro-inspired tie. G-Star Correct Line Denim Tie ($60.96) – buy it at ASOS.
3-4. We know that you’re committed to your technology, so protect your loved ones with only the best materials: these sleeves are made from heavy-duty 13.5oz White Oak raw selvedge Cone Denim. MS&Co iPad and iPhone Raw Selvedge Denim Sleeves ($65) – buy it at MS&Co.
6. We like to say this laptop case feels soft to the touch and speaks to your love of denim; but, heck, we know it’s a trophy item. Acne Einstein Denim Laptop Case ($230) – buy it at Acne.
Railcar Fine Goods, a privately-owned premium denim and workwear brand from Los Angeles, has quietly launched their new women’s selvedge line, consisting of 13.5-ounce Cone Mills red line selvedge denim. The new “Viper” fit is a skinny five-pocket jean made from raw, un-treated denim. When Denim Therapy first interviewed Railcar’s founder Steven Dang in June 2010, the women’s Viper Fit prototype was already in the experimental stage. We are excited about this particular jean because not only is selvedge present on the outseam (as a given), the wearer will have two other locations to show it off: the coin pocket and in the fly (oh my!). Attention to fit was not spared, as Dang noted that there is no rear waistband gaping.
For the moment, pre-orders are being taken for the Viper Fit jeans, and will be ready from one week of order. Check out Railcar Fine Goods online for more information.
Speaking of raw jeans, don’t forget to check out the latest updates on Denim Therapy’s Raw Denim Project on Tumblr.
—Kathy Ng Hassan
Tags: Cone Denim, Railcar Fine Goods, raw denim, Selvage Denim, selvage jeans, selvedge denim, womens selvedge denim, womens selvedge jeans
Baldwin Denim, makers of premium, dry denim jeans, is headquartered in Kansas, a long way from the denim capitol that is Los Angeles. But, design and fit is closest to Designer and Owner Matt Baldwin’s heart. “We work with a third-generation pattern maker to produce a variety of fits.” Sourced from only the top denim mills in America and Japan, Baldwin Denim jeans are 100% cut and sewn in the USA, and hand-made leather patches, custom rivets and a born-on inner-lining descriptor adds a nice bespoke feel.
Would you work with other mills (I noticed you use Kaihara Mills)?
I just purchased some yardage from Kurabo Japan. From a dry denim perspective I have had the best break in from these three mills. The quality of the fabrics as well as colors set them apart from the rest of the field.
Are you working with any special denim technology or textile innovations for your current or upcoming collection?
Our “Black Out” denim is our high quality dry selvage fabric over dyed with a special technique that turns the fabric black and softens the denim. It allows the natural indigo to come through as the denim ages.
BALDWIN DENIM - The Reed and The EJ, available at Baldwin Denim online.
Are there plans to add new denim silhouettes next year?
For men’s The 53 is our dad fit. Longer rise, Tailored in hip and relaxed through the thigh and calf. We needed a more relaxed fit than The Reed, it rounds out our offerings for a good straight leg. For women The L is our legging jean. The fit is a mid rise classic legging jean. It’s not a trendy fit. It becomes very easy to wear for many body types due to the fit through the waist and thigh.
In general, do you have any advice on how to prevent indigo rub-off on shoes or furniture?
No. If you buy dry denim, know what you are getting into.
Be on the lookout for 2011:
A new Baldwin flagship store, set to open in Kansas City on August 2011, with more to come your way.
Kid’s jeans in a dry fabric.
BALDWIN DENIM ONLINE>>
— Kathy Ng Hassan
Tags: Cone Denim, dry denim, Japanese denim, Kaihara, Kurabo
Bottom left: Railcar Fine Good’s Steven Dang at his design table. Bottom right: a women’s denim prototype.
You may wonder what inspires our favorite denim designers. Would it be a movie star? An oil spill in the gulf? For Steven Dang of Railcar Fine Goods, it might just be a classic motorcycle, a vintage car or even the inner workings of a train. An engineer by trade, Steven Dang got tired of just tinkering with cars on the side. Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Railcar’s design studio in Los Angeles. He pulls up a heavy duty sewing factory-style stool for me to sit in and practically bowled me over when he showed me his ginormous roll of selvedge denim. Of course, I had to touch it.
Amid the scattered patterns and denim prototypes stacked on one of his drafting tables, sat a cup of coffee. Calm and well-spoken, Steven admits he doesn’t get much sleep between his engineer work and Railcar. “Everything we do is by hand.” Steven explains to me that his workwear-inspired shirts don’t just come out of a cookie cutter. From the cut of the sleeves and shirtail, to the shoulder panel and even the flow of the fabric’s design, he is careful to mirror the patterns appropriately. “Visually, it has to make sense.” I did scratch my head at first, wondering why a man who repairs the Metro Gold Line by day (actually, he does that at night), has any interest in fashion design. “I love working with my hands and building things, and I see what I do [with Railcar Fine Goods] as that.” Of course, I had to ask him if he had a fave pair of jeans he couldn’t part with. “I don’t. But I catch myself wearing the prototype of my Spikes fit all the time lately. This will probably be that pair.”
Described as ” Industrial Americana fitted clothes,” Steven sews small productions and sampling from his quaint (and relatively immaculate) home studio and uses select factories in L.A. to take care of details. “I don’t like using mass production factories because small details get lost in the production process; and, I never use overseas manufacturing.” So far, so good. Steven has successfully garnered himself some upscale and niche stockists. As we spoke, American Rag World Denim Bar was signing on to carry Railcar. Look Out for Women’s denim in the fall and next season: Men’s Sonny straight leg jeans.
SHOP RAILCAR FINE GOODS
— Kathy Ng Hassan
Tags: Cone Denim, Kaihara, Railcar Fine Goods, raw denim, selvedge denim, workwear