New York Fashion Week may be in full swing, but we didn’t want to blow through the week without acknowledging the menswear fashion shows in Europe. Decidedly more subdued this time around, not to say there weren’t theatrics in play (Jean Paul Gaulter and Ann Demeulemeester notwithstanding) nor performance art (check out Thom Browne’s presentation), many brands incorporated denim into their Fall-Winter 2012 menswear collections while continuing to reach far back to source 300 years of fashion.
Agnès B infused denim into its Fall 2012 collection, which started off as a predictable menswear show, until it took a sharp turn towards androgyny with the introduction of a denim wrap skirt and tunic silhouettes which softened the male silhouette against cuffed, loose-fit jeans. Some of the models were styled with ballet flats, which was not lost on us.
Olivier Rousteing isn’t trying to rock the boat too much at Balmain, after stepping in for Christophe Decarnin. As you can see, jeans for men continue to be biker-chic, while the rest of the collection invokes the aristocracy of the Napoleonic era.
Your Milk Man or Soda Jerk is reincarnated, thanks to Dolce & Gabbana‘s continued retro motif, juxtaposing a bit of Dandy style with some Blue Collar appeal. Heavily whiskered jeans with a deep cuff signals a changing of the guard: the inseams and the rise are going up.
Dries Van Noten may be showing his appreciation for Dutch master painters (though he, himself, is Belgian): a warm orange jean is both trendy and classic-looking against the collection’s wild and experimental takes on the classic denim jackets. Evidently, the brand is not afraid to work outside the box.
Dsquared2 has moved out of the Old West and continues to re-work denim in its various forms: a classic denim jacket holds metal appliques on its sleeves; drop-waist, contrast fabric waistband jeans are becoming the brand’s signature look, and an Argyle-washed chambray shirt was a creative turn and proof that the brand has placed a considerable amount of investment into denim fashion.
Images via Style.com. Stay tuned for more fashion show coverage, this time from New York!
—Kathy Ng Hassan
Tags: Agnes B, Balmain, denim for men, Dolce & Gabbana, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, jeans for men, Men's Fashion Week, menswear, Milan Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week