Denim Therapy had the chance to interview Agave Denim designer Jeff Shafer on their latest releases, evolving design process, and what sets them apart from other denim brands on the market right now. Check out the answers below!
Denim Therapy: Thanks so much for taking the time to Q&A with us. First, tell us a bit about what the design process is like for each collection.
Agave Denim: First, we have a meeting to discuss our current inspiration. We talk about the mood, colors, textures, graphics, etc, and Lauren makes a giant story board. We review several “top secret” color trend services to compare to our inspiration board before generating a first draft color story. We review thousands of fabrics and order hundreds of swatches. Once we narrow down swatches and finalize our color story, we review accessories, packaging, fits, shapes, and silhouettes. We edit, design, drop, and curate, while keeping emerging trends in mind.
Lauren creates patterns and sews samples for the womens line based on the fits and silhouettes we’ve developed. Then comes the merchandising plan and ordering of sample fabrics. After cutting and sewing the first protos, we make the necessary adjustments, and then start shooting our lookbooks!
DT: Agave Denim is definitely known for rich, interesting fabrics. How do you go about sourcing them? When do you know a fabric is perfect?
AD: Over the years, we’ve gotten to know the best mills in the world, from Japan to Italy, Spain, Greece… But you can only “learn” so much about fabric. In the end you either have the passion and an instinct to know or you don’t. Really beautiful denims and other quality fabrics get me super stoked.
Similar to a chef, a winemaker or a cheesemaker or quality butcher. I can see the potential of a fabric in its color, yarn character, texture, etc. It’s instinctual.
DT: We think it’s awesome that the two of you work as a team and have the technical and creative aspects of the process covered. How has that shaped the way Agave Denim does things differently?
AD: Lauren taught me all the basics of the industry 20 years ago, including how to put a collection together. Our roles differ in that I’m more into colors, pretty fabrics, seeing the design process through rose colored glasses while she is more technical, tailoring, cost sheets, etc. We both have incredible respect for each other. We share the same vision for design, quality and integrity.
DT: Give us three key words that describe Agave’s line.
AD: Authentic WestCoast Luxury
DT: Do you have any favorites in the spring line you want to shine a spotlight on?
AD: For women, the Chica jegging, the Peace Corps tomboy fit Capri, and the Linea jean. For men, the slim fit Maverick limited edition selvage jean, the vintage slub Lobster hoodie, and the classic fit Pragmatist cotton/linen jean.
DT: Describe your ideal female and male customers.
AD: They’re into music, art and fashion… and they’re definitely health conscious.
DT: What would your ideal collaboration be?
AD: I would like to shoot a look book with Ansel Adams. I would like to do a leather collection with Belstaff. I would like to do a Tesla “Model X Agave Edition” automobile.”
DT: What message do you have for denim consumers who are more or less lost in the sea of options right now?
AD: Invest your hard earned cash in high quality timeless pieces. Choose vintage whenever possible, especially where quality is involved. Know the difference between disposable and quality and don’t get ripped off!
Visit Agave Denim online and on facebook to learn more—also, don’t forget to check out their spring 2012 lookbook!
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: agave denim, denim designer, interview, jeff shafer, q&a
Refinery29′s month of denim may have ended yesterday, but we’re still having a blast browsing the interviews, reviews, and styling tips. Today we wanted to share their interview with Madewell Denim Designer Jac Cameron, who says she owns 500+ pairs of jeans. Her talk about vintage classics and old school washes will have your inner denim geek developing a big ol’ girl crush.
Our favorite quote:
“Wash is the first thing that attracts me to a pair of jeans. It’s a huge part of what I love about denim. Dark, saturated shades are pretty much what I wear day to day, however washed-out, powdery blues are so pretty, especially as the weather gets warmer.”
Check out the full interview with Jac Cameron here.
—DT Staff
Tags: dark-wash jeans, denim designer, jac cameron, Madewell, vintage denim, vintage Levi's
Last week we shared our photoshoot with Brooklyn DJ and fashion minx Haruka Salt. Now watch to see what her favorite denim brands are and get an even closer look into her Bed Stuy apartment (and closet). We showed her how to pair pastels with zebra print jeans and neon tank tops with vintage acid wash and now you can learn the tricks of the trade, too!
—Sarah Greene
Tags: acid wash jeans, brooklyn dj style, brooklyn fashion, denim styling tips, haruka salt, how to wear printed jeans, rock and roll fashion, shopping for small jeans, tie dye denim, zerba jeans
Denim Therapy had the opportunity to interview Doctrine Jeans last year, when this denim brand was just starting out. Flash forward a year: Doctrine is still here, and they have matured and are offering innovative and covetable jeans with classic and trendy-setting washes that are certain to be on everyone’s wish list for the holidays, come Fall 2012. We caught up with Doctrine Jeans’ Head Designer Teresa Sung for a quick update on their Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Read what’s new about Doctrine Jeans in their Sophomore year.
Denim Therapy: We love that Doctrine don’t jump on every denim trend in the industry. How do you get inspired each season during the design process?
Teresa Sung: Each season is different. But generally, I would start by seeing the runways for the season ahead and try to absorb trends and details first before starting on our seasonal collection. After the overview of all those information, I have to sort thru what works for our Doctrine and what doesn’t. Many times, I would have to look into our archives to see the particular era and icons to get more inspirations.
DT: What are some denim trends you DO love right now?
TS: I love the fact that denim is getting vibrant with its treatments not only with colors and prints, but in pieces like in patch works and embellishment as well as using novelty laundry techniques in discoloration and clouded effects.
DT: We love the one-piece looks in the fall (the denim overalls and jumpsuit). How do you envision women styling these pieces?
TS: Oh yes, overalls/jumpsuits tend to be made more vintage and work wear inspired. But I saw them from a different angle for this season. Why not sexy and sleek? You can style it with soft white blouses in overalls to maintain its chic look as styled in our Look book. It embodies sex appeal with its flare legs fitted through thigh, showcasing elongated leg shape. You don’t even need to style the jumpsuit except to wear it; flaunt it! And you may want to add a few of your favorite bangles.
DT: Do you have any favorite style bloggers or fashion influentials right now?
TS: The Sartorialist, Jack & Jil and Streetpeeper are just a few influentials that I’m obsessed with now. I really appreciate their keen eyes toward fashion reality from different parts of the world.
DT: What’s next for Doctrine Jeans?
TS: I would like Doctrine Jeans to grow not only in the States, but internationally as well.
Go to Doctrine Jeans online to stay update to date.
—DT Staff
Tags: coated jeans, denim designers, Denim Overalls, Doctrine Denim, doctrine jeans, Doctrine Jeans Fall-Winter 2012, jeans for men, jeans for women, ombre jeans, sleek jeans
We first spotted Springa’s shoes at PROJECT NY via Organico Showroom, and we’re still drooling over the fact that these Italian-made sneakers are created from 100% recycled materials. (Yes, that includes denim.) Each pair of shoes is produced in the Tuscan countryside using 1950s vulcanization equipment, for an extra-special handcrafted touch. So even though the raw materials–Hawaiian shirts, striped cotton, tire inner tubes–may be sourced from Berlin, New York, or Paris, the process is quintessentially Italian.
Check out our exclusive interview with Organico Showroom’s Marc Ernst about the line and what’s next for fall 2012!
Most popular shoe style so far?
Springa Aloha (vintage hawaiian shirt lining) and Springa Camo (camouflage in cotton canvas) are the two most popular Spring 2012 styles–each features one of a kind trim and details that are Springa signatures.
What exactly makes Springa’s shoes distinctly Italian?
Each Springa sneaker is made by hand using restored 1950′s vulcanizatto machinery–the cotton canvas, suede, and linings are individually selected to ensure that each shoe is one of a kind–assembled in a process that takes more than two hours for each shoe using artisan manufacturing techniques passed down from generation to generation.
Are there plans to expand the variety of materials used in the future?
Dead stock 13 oz denim, vachetta (vegetable dyed) leather, Carhartt pants, silk neckties, and cotton sailcloth (cotton canvas from sailboats) are recycled and hand finished in Springa’s Fall 2012 collection.
What kind of person do you see wearing these shoes?
Springa is for the individual–our mantra is “escape the industrial mindset”–people immune to mass trends.
How would YOU style a pair of these shoes?
Springa is all about personal style–mixing and matching pattern, color, and materials. For him, mixing the Camo with a tonal herringbone or plaid pant and for her, the Aloha hawaiian print with a batik dress or mini skirt.
—Brie Hiramine
Tags: denim shoes, denim sneakers, Project NY, q&a interview, recycled denim, recycled materials, springa
The guys in our office recently became fans of the menswear denim brand OPENMARKET and reviewed a pair of red skinny jeans and dirty-mint skinny jeans accordingly. Launched by designer Kevin Chen, OPENMARKET is all produced, manufactured and designed in LA. We had a chance to ask Kevin some questions and get the behind-the-scenes on what makes this brand unique.
Denim Therapy: Let’s start from the beginning. What inspired you to get this brand off the ground?
Kevin Chen: I’ve always been inspired with all things old and new and I think a lot of that has to do with my affinity with flea markets (like Rose Bowl. It has a lot to do with rediscovering old ideas, and seeing if we can reinvent them. It’s from these experiences coupled with my creative design instincts that I felt I wanted to create a brand that could facilitate old ideas into modern ones. That is the premise of OPENMARKET: a collection that puts new meaning to MODERN work wear.
DT: How do you differentiate yourself from the hundreds of popular denim brands afloat right now?
KC: We pride ourselves upon the fact that OPENMARKET is 100% made in USA, and not only does the collection comprise of our signature 6-pocket denim jeans, it also includes our uniquely oil-stained carpenters, henleys, Tees, chunky-knit sweaters, leather jackets, blazers, denim jackets, hooded/non-hooded sweatshirts in a multitude of fabrics.
All designs reflect a deconstructed approach to vintage work wear, re-engineered with a modern appeal. We like to believe that we extend beyond the traditional denim line, because our collection is multi-dimensional and offers many essential items. Even our denim is done in a non-traditional way (details like the 6-pocket design set them apart).
DT: Do you have any pre-designing rituals?
KC: I’m not sure if it would be called a “ritual”, but I do often research trends by people watching and make a mental note of what they’re wearing. From there I meet with my team and we search for vintage garments (often times at flea markets) that possess old work wear details, good for merging with unique and unexpected fabric.
It’s important to me that my designs are timeless and as the brand grows with each season, I want to add new silhouettes and colors that are modified from the original concept.
DT: Describe your ideal target customer.
KC: Our ideal target customer is a self-assured, confident, cultured, and well-composed man. He is artistic, athletic, and is that guy that is admired by his peers. Not only does he have a good job, but he’s a humanitarian that actively participates in charitable causes. During his free time, he enjoys quality dining but can sensibly appreciate hole in the wall restaurants. He goes by the philosophy of working hard, and playing harder.
DT: What would be your dream collaboration?
KC: In the future, I would like to collaborate with a great footwear company. I want OPENMARKET to have a diverse product line that will dress someone from head to toe.
DT: What are the most popular washes/fits in the line? What are your favorites, and how would you style them?
KC: A few of my favorite pieces is the K8-Grey Herring Carpenter pants, O3-Dk Indigo Raw Blazer, O4-Burgandy Leather Moto Jacket, and our ultra plush O6-Black Alpaca Wool cardigan sweater. I like pairing my bottoms with blazers for a more dressed up look, and when I’m doing a casual look, I like wearing it with a basic t-shirt accompanied with some loafers.
DT: Do you have any favorite/least favorite denim trends right now?
KC: I like that trends are leaning towards a cleaner cut with simpler details. What use to be a market full of logo-centric designs has taken a more subtle approach. However, I do think that in the men’s market, bright and vivid colors will be on the rise. Men today seem to be open to colors. I think it has to do with wanting to diversify their wardrobes and express themselves.
I remember when wearing “pink” signified a man as being more fashion forward, but I do believe times have changed, and colors will be very inspirational. I also think that there will be a transition in their wardrobes as they begin to seek non-denim jeans… or should I say the look and feel of denim, but constructed with non-traditional fabrics.
DT: Street style and style blogs are huge in the industry right now as a source of inspiration, influencing the high-end labels rather than vice versa. How much does street style influence your designing?
KC: I take into account what is happening on the streets. There are a lot of distinct styles that I have seen in “streetwear” and I think it embodies a sense of “coolness” to it. When you look at the OPENMARKET collection, I’m sure you can see a lot of elements that are traditional yet modern, as well as street edgy. It’s important to keep in mind that street styles range from the inexpensive & chic to the lux & exclusive. The OPENMARKET collection will definitely encompass all these elements.
DT: How many pairs of jeans do you own?
KC: I own way too many jeans and too many that I call my favorite. But I’m going to be honest, my two most favorite pairs right now is OPENMARKET K1-6 pocket jeans in Dark Orange, and the K8 Carpenter pant! These two pairs have been on serious rotation for me. Both great washes with amazing fit!
DT: Can you give us hint about what’s next?
KC: Denim tops with non denim bottoms, and of course, a lot of colors.
–
Keep up with OPENMARKET online!
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: behind the scenes, colored denim, interview, Kevin Chen, men's jeans, mens denim, openmarket, Street Style
Remember your first favorite pair of jeans? The ones you wore everywhere, with everything? The ones you didn’t wash for weeks on end because dirty favorite jeans are better than other, lesser jeans? And, do you remember the day you realized you’d worn them out so much that they were unwearable? Knee holes, crotch blowouts, four inches of hem destruction… We set out on the streets of New York to ask people about their most beloved blues, and the stories remind us of people talking about a close friend whom they’ve lost forever. It’s a lesson for the masses, though, because Denim Therapy can fix your denim best friends! Spread the word! Save your jeans!
—Sarah Greene
Tags: Denim Repair, Denim Therapy, denim therapy interview, express jeans, first favorite pair of jeans, fix your favorite jeans, how to fix jeans, jean repair service, new york street style
We’re really psyched that we got the chance to Q&A Brice Partouche, designer of French denim brand April77, 1/2 the mastermind behind the April77 x Calla Romantic Rights collaboration (which turned out some seriously dreamy jeans). Brice revealed some admirable denim snobbery and, very interestingly, an interest in creating jeans out of Lady Gaga‘s hair.
Denim Therapy: Lets start from the beginning. How did you know you wanted to be a designer?
Brice Partouche: I never wanted to be a designer. I studied medecine. I wanted to be a cardiac surgeon! But I was into music too, playing in bands. Fashion wasn’t (and still not) important to me. It’s all about attitude.
My dad was a jeans maker and I learnt everything from him, even if he tried to keep me out from this business. I guess he wanted me to have a real job… and now we are working together. April77 is a family company. I started the brand in 2001. The idea was simple : clothes that me and my friends want to wear.
DT: Are there other denim brands you consider your immediate competition? How do you differentiate yourself from the hundreds of popular denim brands afloat right now?
BP: We don’t have competitors and if we have well I don’t know them. I guess we are different from others brand because we have a real story to tell. We’re authentic and passionated and that’s what make our customers special. They are more “fans” than customers.
People who knows me will tell you, I’m a real nerd. I feel only concerned by authentic denim brands and I try to avoid that profusion of storyless denim brands flooding the market.
DT: Do you have any pre-designing rituals?
BP: You mean like doing pagan rituals, turning upside down black jeans and waiting for the inspiration? Well not really, but I try to leave Paris for 2 weeks, going to NY or California. The USA have always been my most inspiring country.
DT: Describe the person who represents your ideal target customer—the customer you have in mind when you’re planning a collection.
BP: I figure a one-step-ahead teenager or a 35-year-old guy still stuck in his skaboarding years. At least, both are music nerds , clever customers and not under the fashion industry influence.
DT: What would be your dream collaboration? Any plans of that in the future?
BP: Jeans made with Lady Gaga’s hair would be awesome. But a collaboration with Henri Rollins would be the absolute dream!
DT: What are the most popular washes/fits in the line? What are your favorites, and how would you style them?
BP: The JOEY Overdrive Raw is our best seller. It’s our basic skinny jeans in natural indigo raw denim. It’s unisex. DICTATOR are a slim/straight jeans, very popular too. Raw jeans with a blank or band tee are the best… I’m not a fan of washings. I ‘ve always prefered raw blue or black denim. It’s a real pleasure to see that our customers prefer raw denim as well.
Of course we make couple of washings. They are always inspired by my personal or my friends jeans after 6 months or one year without washing or cleaning. I know it sounds dirty but that’s how jeans are supposed to be worn.
DT: Do you have any favorite/least favorite denim trends right now?
BP: I like open end denim. They were famous in the 70’s and 80’s , when denim fabric production became massive, suppliers had to make cheaper denim. The quality was good because the fabric was thicker…but the price was cheaper.
DT: Street style and style blogs are huge in the industry right now as a source of inspiration, influencing the high end labels rather than vice versa. How much does street style influence your designing?
BP: Well, street style is of course one of my main inspiration. I’m lucky because my job makes me travelling a lot. I meet very inspiring people, some are my friends, some are just random cool guys and girls.
DT: How many pairs of denim do YOU own?
BP: Guess what, I have two pairs : one blue, one black. I wear them till they die, then I change.
DT: Favorite celeb wearing your brand?
The Kills, Amy Winehouse (when she was around), Julian Casablancas.
Keep an eye on April77 for denim-snob approved releases this spring! Huge thanks to Brice Partouche for doing this Q&A with us.
—Jackie Racer & Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: April77, Brice Partouche, Exclusive, French denim brand, interview, Lady Gaga, q&a
We had a chance to interview Raleigh Denim Workshop designers Victor and Sarah Lytvinenko during their NYFW Fall 2012 presentation, and they let us in on their minimal carbon footprint, innovative fabric contents (ever hear of fabric made from recycled TV dinner trays? Neither had we!), and how they’re aiming to create the backbone of your wardrobe. Check it out below.
If you missed the original post, click for our Raleigh Denim FW’12 photos and review.
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: eco friendly denim, fall 2012, New York Fashion Week, nyfw, Raleigh Denim, Sarah Lytvinenko, Victor Lytvinenko, video interview
We were invited to the GUESS & GUESS By Marciano Spring 2012 preview party last week to scope out what the brand is offering next season, and this first photo sums it up on the ladies’ end! Strong primary colors and pastels mixed with jewel tones, neons, bold prints, and sportswear that styles seamlessly from a day at the office to a night on the dance floor. Prints were a huge focus and came in varieties like floral, zebra stripe, and Monet-esque motifs that met in the middle of casual and elegant.
The denim silhouette of choice? The cropped-skinny jean! Styled with? Sheer button-down blouses and rocker-chic jackets. We also spied a long denim skirt we would love to prance around on the beach in this summer. See below for more, including the men’s styles.
Check out the fresh spring collection and stylish attendees below:
See our vide of the event below:
Photos by Raffael Flores-Contreras.
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: colored denim, denim workshirt, GUESS by Marciano, guess denim, Guess jeans, neon jeans, spring 2012, spring 2012 preview, zebra stripe jeans
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