The second batch of discoveries from our jaunt through Liberty Fairs is indigo-drenched. Indigo is a native plant in Japan and the history of Indigo dye on the small eastern island runs deep, back to the 10th century. The technique boomed during the Edo period (1192-1333) due to the dye’s ability to cling well to cotton, the popular fabric of the lower classes at the time. By the early 1900’s almost 1400 acres were covered in indigo crop in Japan, now a mere 70 acres. The process of dyeing naturally is laborious, time-consuming and is carried on by skilled artisans. Traditionally Sukumo leaves, wheat bran, sake, hardwood ash and lime are combined in vats and fermented to produce the ocean hue. In Japanese culture the dye has been believed to contain protective properties from warning off insects and snakes in fields to sparing firemen burns. Out of the hundreds of booths at Liberty Fairs two stood out to us: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo.
Blue Blue Japan began in 1993 and designer Kenji Tsuji has been designing there since 2006. His designs usually contain bold, graphic interpretations of traditional Japanese motifs and patterns (waves, the sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc.). When his pieces aren’t emblazoned with beautiful images they are simple and highlight the beauty of traditional indigo dye. Many of the shirts are made with a tie dye technique called Shibori or have a dip dyed ombre fade. The construction of the garments is based on farm work wear. You can find Blue Blue Japan products at Union Made Goods, Mr Porter, and Hickoree’s. Read more about Kenji at mrporter.com.
Below this tattered patched jacket read a sign “This 100 year old fabric is Aizome (Indigo dyed cloth). The well used areas of the fabric are where it has been hand sewn over and over again. The clothes have been made out of this fabric as is. In times when things were scarce in Japan even a little fabric was considered precious. This preciousness is found in this cloth.”
Traditional Japanese stitching technique, sashiko, used on button detail.
For more photos, style inspiration, and information on denim and indigo techniques check out the Denim Therapy Tumblr and Pinterest pages.
All photographs credited to the author.
The Denim Therapy team’s Market Week tour continued at Liberty Fairs held at Pier 94. The space was enormous with over one hundred booths to cover. We scoured the long aisles and prioritized. Our top priority? Denim. Our featured picks from the show are all Japanese and American brands including Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount.
Feltraiger is a Brooklyn-based brand focused on making products you can pass down from generation to generation. Their customer base ranges from hardcore motorcyclists to anyone inspired by American subcultures of the 20th century. Feltraiger’s new Core collection features their bestselling basics. We’re fans of the Destitute Vest in indigo available for Fall 2015.
Th co-founder’s motorcycle parked in front of the new collection.
Destitute vest in indigo.
Kato jeans are made of Japanese denim, designed in Kyoto, and manufactured in Los Angeles. Kato was started by Hiroshi Kato in 1996 and has become one of our favorites. We favor the immaculate construction and details such as the diagonal belt loop and selvedge coin pocket. Highlights from the Spring 2016 line are the 13 oz. Raw Slim jean and a 7 oz Shawl Collar Blazer. Their leather patch has also been updated for the first time since the brand’s inception.
Perfect distressing detail on the hem of the shawl-style blazer lapel.
Fullcount denim is made in Okayama mills in Japan and was one of the first brands to start using Zimbabwe cotton back in 1992. Fullcount is here to stay, check out a peak of their Spring 2016 offerings below.
Rust-looking wash on Fullcount jeans.
Boro-like stitching detail on a chambray shirt.
All photos credited to the author.
—Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, DENIM, Feltraiger, Fullcount, Japan, Japanese denim, Kato, made in japan, market week, mens denim, menswear, raw denim
With Men’s Fashion Week came a flurry of activity here in New York. Amy Leverton left London behind and came stateside to promote her book Denim Dudes. Amy has worked in the industry for ten years and is currently the Director of Denim and Youth Culture at WGSN. For Denim Dudes Amy traveled the world photographing and interviewing eccentric denimheads. She chronicled the most interesting styles and global trends in denim cult culture. The book is stocked in most book stores and is also available on Amazon. The New York book launch was hosted by Loren Cronk at Loren in Greenpoint and we couldn’t endure the thought of missing it. The storefront doubles as a workshop where Loren still designs and constructs many jeans by hand. The small shop was packed tight with denimheads on a humid night in Brooklyn and we couldn’t have dreamt of a better venue.
Very amazing vintage jackets for sale.
Sewing patterns, bicycles, and colored lights hanging from the ceiling.
–Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, Amy Leverton, book launch, boutique, Denim Dudes, event, hand-made, Loren Cronk, market week, New York Fashion Week, selvedge, workshop
Our last pitstop at Project NYC was at the Raleigh Denim Workshop booth where we talked with co-founder and designer Victor Lytvinenko. Some of the new Summer 2016 pieces include navy hibiscus printed shorts and bright colored jeans in cream, rusty scarlet, sky blue and plum. The Alexander fit will be available in a light pin dot fabric recovered from the Cone Mills archive. Aside from fun, warm weather pieces Raleigh will still deliver the quality raw denim and selvedge we have come to expect from the southern brand next spring.
Victor was most enthused about the Jones 319 Raw and the Jones Organic Raw. The Jones 319 is a thin fit jean made of a non-selvedge raw denim for only $176, making it a great first purchase for those wanting to try their first pair of raw denim without having to pawn an heirloom. The Jones Organic Raw is made using the first and only organic denim grown and made in the U.SA. Raleigh teamed up with Cotton of the Carolinas and Cone Mills to create a denim that is organic and 100% made in the U.S.A., literally from the ground up.
The big picture isn’t the only thing on Victor’s mind, his attention to detail in his company’s designs is also impressive. We’re particularly keen on the triple stitch Raleigh uses on many of its selvedge fits. Two of the threads are gold and the third is indigo, camouflaging the heavy stitching and keeping a minimal look to the jeans. Once the denim fades over time the detail of the third dark navy stitch is revealed. Check out the photos we took at Project below.
Raleigh jeans continue to be capable of some really beautiful fades. An untouched pair is to the right and the whiskered pair on the left is the result of two years of wear.
New colors available Spring 2016.
The Alexander available soon in pin dot.
The Jones 319 Raw
Left: detail of subtle navy triple stitch. Right: the navy triple stitch revealed over time.
Strong honeycomb fades on a worn pair of Raleigh jeans.
—Emily B. McIntosh
After the exciting commencement of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, came the rush of New York Market Week where designers and brands showed off their freshest designs and samples to retailers in showrooms across the city.
We started our week at Project New York and our very first stop was E.N.D. denim. We had a brief glimpse of the E.N.D. denim line at the Denim Expo hosted by BPD Washhouse in June. E.N.D. is the new offshoot of the venerable Japanese denim brand Edwin (E.N.D. is an acronym of Edwin ‘N Denim). This sub-brand is so new that at this point that their digital footprint is almost nonexistent so we were lucky to have a quick chat with the designer, Yutaka Endo, and get a closer look at the collection at Project.
Highlights of the collection include denim at an entry-level price point, light chambray shirts, hoodies, and super soft polo shirts. All of the pieces feature one or two of E.N.D.’s signature motifs: the mizuhiki or the asanoha pattern. The mizuhiki knot is a bow traditionally used during gift-giving. The asanoha is an auspicious, abstract hemp leaf pattern. Lookout for the release of E.N.D. in the next year and check back at the Denim Therapy blog for more details on the official launch. If you are in the Brooklyn area you can stop by NOS Boutique in Dumbo to buy a select assortment of E.N.D. teeshirts and men’s jeans.
Traditional asanoha pattern stitched into the pocket of a pair of men’s jeans.
Details on a pair of jeans from the women’s line, including a red mizuhiki symbol embroidered on back pocket and peach fabric detail at waist.
Asanohara pattern on the hood of a dark indigo hoodie.
The roots of E.N.D. Edwin jeans with classic arcuate.
—Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: E.N.D., Edwin, embroidery, Japanese, Japanese denim, market week, project
Last week at Project we had the chance to stop by the Jean Shop booth. Read on and check out the photos to see what we gleaned from our quick encounter during our preview of their Spring 2016 collection.
Conversations with denim heads combined with our intuition tells us that overalls and coveralls are going to make a strong comeback next year. Below is a prototype of a potential piece.
The personal touch of patches and repairs is timeless and certainly not going out of style any time soon. We saw extreme distressing, apparent darning, and patches galore during Market Week.
We strongly approve of the women’s denim vest in Jean Shop’s Spring 2016 collection.
We are always excited to see selvedge denim crossing into the women’s market. The Jean Shop Spring 2016 women’s selvedge shorts are kind of fulfilling our fantasies. We can only imagine the coolest of babes rocking orange selvedge shorts in the summer heat.
Jean Shop’s famous orange stitching and pockets.
A great styling suggestion after our own hearts from Jean Shop: denim on denim on denim. Triple the denim triple the fun.
—Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, DENIM, Jean Shop, menswear, Spring 2016
We recently attended the new Levi’s women’s denim collection launch party at Milk Studios in the Meatpacking District. The event coincided with the release of the most significant change to the Levi’s women’s line since its inception. The Lot 700 update was an historic shift for a company so famous for its menswear. The theme running throughout the event was the staying power of Levi’s throughout American history. The new 700 series fit this big picture view by sticking with classic skinny and boot cut styles and avoiding temporarily trendy washes and treatments. However, the event was less geared towards previewing the construction of new pieces as it was focused on celebrating women’s empowerment. The walls of the warehouse featured dreamy lifesize portraits of influential badass babes in jeans by Petra Collins and glowing shadowboxes of vintage women’s Levi’s ephemera. Music by The Misshapes followed by a live performance by Lion Babe fed the crowd’s energy. Camera in hand and properly inspired by the triumphs of American women we waded through the warehouse packed with attendees decked in denim.
Models styled in five flavors of the new collection from the 711 Skinny to the 721 High Rise Skinny.
Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes mixing.
Photographer of the evening Petra Collins does skinny jeans with a Bowie tee.
Jillian Hervey of Lion Babe and Levi’s own Jimmy Everett share a blue carpet moment.
Model Yuka Mizuhara styled in dark blue skinny jeans in front of vintage Levi’s ads.
Detail of a pair of vintage women’s Levi’s with cinch back displayed at the event.
Check out more outfits of guests and models in the gallery below. Special guests included models Michelle Oullet, Nina Agdal, Carlotta Kohl, Georgina Burke and Jennie Runk.
All images via Raffael Flores-Contreras
—Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: Levi's, Levi's Launch Party, Petra Collins, women's Levi's, womens denim
Reminisce with us as we take a look back at the first day of Project Show, from super-cute animals (what’s a trade show without cute animals?) to terrifying shoes and a superior lounge area, complete with ping pong.
Shoes that bite back.
Reading about ourselves in the show program. #egoboost
For one fleeting moment, thinking we were on the beach.
Stay tuned for more Project Show coverage this week!
Tags: denim fashion, Denim Therapy, denim trade show, denim trends, lady gaga shoes, menswear dog, project new york, project show
We tried on some shades at the MYKITA store opening in SoHo last night, celebrating the newest leg of the brand’s increasingly large global reach. MYKITA’s German eyewear is lightweight, comfortable, and stylish as hell… a combination you can’t ignore. As if their frames weren’t cool enough, the concept behind the location at 109 Crosby street is every bit as thought out.
From MC’s review at Hey Mishka:
“No detail of this interior has been overlooked. Everything from the neon tubes that illuminate the building’s original metal pipes along the ceiling to the structure of the shelves and the storage units (old air stewardess trolleys) have been honed to reflect the brand’s unique image.
There was a real emphasis on preserving the building’s original heritage as an Art Deco landmark while creating a vibrant show space for the product. You know those places that are just fun to shop in, even without champagne?”
See more photos here, as well as a video of rockjazz pianist ELEW performing live. Be sure to check out MYKITA at 109 Crosby Street!
Tags: crosby street, designer frames, elew, german design, modern glasses, Mykita, new york city, rockjazz, round frames, round glasses, store opening
Denim lovers in Brooklyn know of a little gem on Nassau avenue right at the fringe of Greenpoint and beginning of Williamsburg, where the brunch and dinner crowds form for Five Leaves and Nights & Weekends. Loren is a small white brick denim haven filled to its brim with made-in-Brooklyn jeans, vintage denim finds and related treasures like men’s accessories and a selection of women’s denim staples. Denim Therapy was invited in for a bottle of vodka (wrapped in a snug denim case, designed by Loren Cronk in a special collaboration with ABSOLUT) and some jeans-to-go. We finished the evening off with denim-themed cocktails at Nights & Weekends.
Check out the video for more on the ABSOLUT collaboration:
Stay tuned for photos of DT’s resident denim expert Raffael in his made-in-Brooklyn jeans!
—Michelle Christina Larsen
Tags: ABSOLUT denim, brooklyn jeans, custom denim, custom jeans, denim shop brooklyn, Loren Cronk, made in brooklyn, mens denim, Nights & Weekends, raw denim, raw jeans, vintage denim