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Denim at Liberty Fair: Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount


The Denim Therapy team’s Market Week tour continued at Liberty Fairs held at Pier 94. The space was enormous with over one hundred booths to cover. We scoured the long aisles and prioritized. Our top priority?  Denim. Our featured picks from the show are all Japanese and American brands including Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount.

Feltraiger is a Brooklyn-based brand focused on making products you can pass down from generation to generation.  Their customer base ranges from hardcore motorcyclists to anyone inspired by American subcultures of the 20th century. Feltraiger’s new Core collection features their bestselling basics. We’re fans of the Destitute Vest in indigo available for Fall 2015.

Feltraiger motorcycle
Th co-founder’s motorcycle parked in front of the new collection.

Feltraiger denim vest
Destitute vest in indigo.

Kato jeans are made of Japanese denim, designed in Kyoto, and manufactured in Los Angeles. Kato was started by Hiroshi Kato in 1996 and has become one of our favorites. We favor the immaculate construction and details such as the diagonal belt loop and selvedge coin pocket. Highlights from the Spring 2016 line are the 13 oz. Raw Slim jean and a 7 oz Shawl Collar Blazer. Their leather patch has also been updated for the first time since the brand’s inception.

Kato Japanese denim

Kato Japanese denim

Kato japanese denim blazer
Perfect distressing detail on the hem of the shawl-style blazer lapel.

Fullcount denim is made in Okayama mills in Japan and was one of the first brands to start using Zimbabwe cotton back in 1992. Fullcount is here to stay, check out a peak of their Spring 2016 offerings below.

Fullcount Japanese denim\

Fullcount Japanese denim
Rust-looking wash on Fullcount jeans.

Fullcount Japanese denim

Fullcount zimbabwe chambray
Boro-like stitching detail on a chambray shirt.

All photos credited to the author.

—Emily B. McIntosh

 

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Posted Aug 24 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

Behind The Scenes: Denim & Supply FW15 Campaign


As much as we love totally epic, stone-faced models wearing jeans in campaigns, we really love how Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren always seems to capture a more young, fun, social vibe. Such is the case with their newest:

“Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren has released its official fall-winter 2015 campaign images starring R&B singer Tinashe, Cody Simpson as well as models Hailey Baldwin and Bella Hadid. The images channel a free-spirited, bohemian style with the photographs captured on location at the Electric Lady Studios in New York City.”

Check out the photos and learn more at Fashion Gone Rogue.

ralph-lauren-denim-supply-campaign-15

Image via Fashion Gone Rogue.

—DT Staff

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Posted Aug 13 2015 in Campaigns » Celebrity Style Watch

Denim Dude’s Book Launch at Loren


With Men’s Fashion Week came a flurry of activity here in New York. Amy Leverton left London behind and came stateside to promote her book Denim Dudes. Amy has worked in the industry for ten years and is currently the Director of Denim and Youth Culture at WGSN. For Denim Dudes Amy traveled the world photographing and interviewing eccentric denimheads. She chronicled the most interesting styles and global trends in denim cult culture. The book is stocked in most book stores and is also available on Amazon. The New York book launch was hosted by Loren Cronk at Loren in Greenpoint and we couldn’t endure the thought of missing it. The storefront doubles as a workshop where Loren still designs and constructs many jeans by hand. The small shop was packed tight with denimheads on a humid night in Brooklyn and we couldn’t have dreamt of a better venue.

Denim Dudes Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk Juki machine

Loren Cronk
Very amazing vintage jackets for sale.

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk
Sewing patterns, bicycles, and colored lights hanging from the ceiling.

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

Loren Cronk

–Emily B. McIntosh

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Posted Aug 13 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

NY Market Week: Raleigh Denim at Project


Our last pitstop at Project NYC was at the Raleigh Denim Workshop booth where we talked with co-founder and designer Victor Lytvinenko. Some of the new Summer 2016 pieces include navy hibiscus printed shorts and bright colored jeans in cream, rusty scarlet, sky blue and plum. The Alexander fit will be available in a light pin dot fabric recovered from the Cone Mills archive. Aside from fun, warm weather pieces Raleigh will still deliver the quality raw denim and selvedge we have come to expect from the southern brand next spring.

Victor was most enthused about the Jones 319 Raw and the Jones Organic Raw. The Jones 319 is a thin fit jean made of a non-selvedge raw denim for only $176, making it a great first purchase for those wanting to try their first pair of raw denim without having to pawn an heirloom. The Jones Organic Raw is made using the first and only organic denim grown and made in the U.SA. Raleigh teamed up with Cotton of the Carolinas and Cone Mills to create a denim that is organic and 100% made in the U.S.A., literally from the ground up.

The big picture isn’t the only thing on Victor’s mind, his attention to detail in his company’s designs is also impressive. We’re particularly keen on the triple stitch Raleigh uses on many of its selvedge fits. Two of the threads are gold and the third is indigo, camouflaging the heavy stitching and keeping a minimal look to the jeans. Once the denim fades over time the detail of the third dark navy stitch is revealed. Check out the photos we took at Project below.

Raleigh Denim fade
Raleigh jeans continue to be capable of some really beautiful fades. An untouched pair is to the right and the whiskered pair on the left is the result of two years of wear.

Raleigh denim colros
New colors available Spring 2016.

Raleigh denim hibiscus print

Raleigh denim pindot
The Alexander available soon in pin dot.

Raleigh denim Jones
The Jones 319 Raw

Raleigh triple stitch
Left: detail of subtle navy triple stitch. Right: the navy triple stitch revealed over time.

Raleigh denim honeycomb
Strong honeycomb fades on a worn pair of Raleigh jeans.

Emily B. McIntosh

Posted Aug 11 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

NY Market Week: Edwin’s E.N.D. at Project


After the exciting commencement of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, came the rush of New York Market Week where designers and brands showed off their freshest designs and samples to retailers in showrooms across the city.

We started  our week at Project New York and our very first stop was E.N.D. denim. We had a brief glimpse of the E.N.D. denim line at the Denim Expo hosted by BPD Washhouse in June. E.N.D. is the new offshoot of the venerable Japanese denim brand Edwin (E.N.D. is an acronym of Edwin ‘N Denim). This sub-brand is so new that at this point that their digital footprint is almost nonexistent so we were lucky to have a quick chat with the designer, Yutaka Endo, and get a closer look at the collection at Project.

Highlights of the collection include denim at an entry-level price point, light chambray shirts, hoodies, and super soft polo shirts. All of the pieces feature one or two of E.N.D.’s signature motifs: the mizuhiki or the asanoha pattern. The mizuhiki knot is a bow traditionally used during gift-giving. The asanoha is an auspicious,  abstract hemp leaf pattern. Lookout for the release of E.N.D. in the next year and check back at the Denim Therapy blog for more details on the official launch. If you are in the Brooklyn area you can stop by NOS Boutique in Dumbo to buy a select assortment of E.N.D. teeshirts and men’s jeans.

E.N.D. edwin asanoha
Traditional asanoha pattern stitched into the pocket of a pair of men’s jeans.

japanese denim E.N.D. women's denim
Details on a pair of jeans from the women’s line, including a red mizuhiki symbol embroidered on back pocket and peach fabric detail at waist.

E.N.D. denim hoodie asanohara
Asanohara pattern on the hood of a dark indigo hoodie.

edwin-chambrayshirt

E.N.D. Edwin japanese denim chambray

E.N.D. denim mizuhiki

Edwin denim
The roots of E.N.D. Edwin jeans with classic arcuate.

Emily B. McIntosh

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Posted Jul 31 2015 in Denim News » Events » Reviews: Brand

NY Market Week: Jean Shop at Project


Last week at Project we had the chance to stop by the Jean Shop booth. Read on and check out the photos to see what we gleaned from our quick encounter during our preview of their Spring 2016 collection.

Conversations with denim heads combined with our intuition tells us that overalls and coveralls are going to make a strong comeback next year. Below is a prototype of a potential piece.

Jean Shop overalls

The personal touch of patches and repairs is timeless and certainly not going out of style any time soon. We saw extreme distressing, apparent darning, and patches galore during Market Week.

Jean Shop patch

We strongly approve of the women’s denim vest in Jean Shop’s Spring 2016 collection.

Jean Shop denim vest women's denim

We are always excited to see selvedge denim crossing into the women’s market. The Jean Shop Spring 2016 women’s selvedge shorts are kind of fulfilling our fantasies. We can only imagine the coolest of babes rocking orange selvedge shorts in the summer heat.

Jean Shop women's denim shorts selvedge

Jean Shop denim shorts

Jean Shop’s famous orange stitching and pockets.

Jean Shop orange denim

A great styling suggestion after our own hearts from Jean Shop: denim on denim on denim. Triple the denim triple the fun.

Jean Shop denim on denim

Emily B. McIntosh

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Posted Jul 30 2015 in Denim Menswear » Denim News » Events

Levi’s Women’s Denim Collection Fall 2015


Levi’s has officially released its new women’s denim collection for Fall 2015.  While the fashion world has been slowly turning its gaze towards menswear, Levi’s has been quietly channeling powerful feminine energy. The new line has been described by the denim behemoth as “the most significant women’s denim collection launch since 1934” when Levi’s graced us with the first pair of women’s jeans, the 701. Over the past two years designers have been developing the company’s women’s line into a classic collection strong enough to stand along its famous Lot 500 series. The newly fleshed-out Lot 700 is equipped with fits that flatter all body types and styles with staying power that appeal to all tastes. Check out the new additions to Lot 700 below.

Levi's Lot 700

Left to right: 710 Super Skinny, 711 Skinny, 712 Slim, 715 Bootcut, 721 High Rise.

The new series is meant to have the go-to pair of jeans for every woman. The new Live In Levi’s global campaign reflects the inclusiveness in their women’s line featuring female artists of all ages, shapes and ethnicities. Stars of the campaign include Alicia Keys, Ryn Weaver, and Ibeyi.

 

Ibeyi for Levi's

French-Cuban musical duo and twin sisters, Ibeyi.

All images via Levi’s.

—Emily B. McIntosh

 

 

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Posted Jul 16 2015 in Campaigns » Denim News

Levi’s 700 Series x Petra Collins Launch Party


We recently attended the new Levi’s women’s denim collection launch party at Milk Studios in the Meatpacking District. The event coincided with the release of the most significant change to the Levi’s women’s line since its inception. The Lot 700 update was an historic shift for a company so famous for its menswear. The theme running throughout the event was the staying power of Levi’s throughout American history. The new 700 series fit this big picture view by sticking with classic skinny and boot cut styles and avoiding temporarily trendy washes and treatments. However, the event was less geared towards previewing the construction of new pieces as it was focused on celebrating women’s empowerment. The walls of the warehouse featured dreamy lifesize portraits of influential badass babes in jeans by Petra Collins and glowing shadowboxes of vintage women’s Levi’s ephemera. Music by The Misshapes followed by a live performance by Lion Babe fed the crowd’s energy. Camera in hand and properly inspired by the triumphs of American women we waded through the warehouse packed with attendees decked in denim.

Levi's Lot 700 women's denim collection

Models styled in five flavors of the new collection from the 711 Skinny to the 721 High Rise Skinny.

Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes

Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes mixing.

Petra Collins photographs for Levi

Photographer of the evening Petra Collins does skinny jeans with a Bowie tee.

Lion Babe

Jillian Hervey of Lion Babe and Levi’s own Jimmy Everett share a blue carpet moment.

model Yuka Mizuhara poses at Levi's

Model Yuka Mizuhara styled in dark blue skinny jeans in front of vintage Levi’s ads.

Vintage Levi's women's levis

Detail of a pair of vintage women’s Levi’s with cinch back displayed at the event.

Check out more outfits of guests and models in the gallery below. Special guests included models Michelle Oullet, Nina Agdal, Carlotta Kohl, Georgina Burke and Jennie Runk.

All images via Raffael Flores-Contreras

Emily B. McIntosh 

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Posted Jul 15 2015 in Events

Levi’s Has Saved 1 Billion Liters Of Water


According to Levi’s, their efforts to save 1 billion liters of water have come to fruition. From Denim Blog:

You may remember that about a year ago, Levi Strauss & Co. CEO Chip Bergh said that he rarely washes his jeans. His remarks sparked a debate about the frequency of washing jeans and the importance of washing less. Today, LS&Co. is continuing that conversation with consumers and the industry by announcing several initiatives.

Levis-Strauss-LCA-Infographic-Its-Time-to-Come-Clean

• 1 Billion Liters Saved – Levi Strauss & Co. has saved one billion liters of water since 2011 through its Water.

• Consumer Engagement Campaign – LS&Co. today launched a digital tool to help educate consumers about the environmental impact of their own washing habits. LS&Co. is also asking fans to take the #WashLessPledge, by promising to wash their jeans less between World Water Day (March 22) and Earth Day (April 22).

• Product Lifecycle Assessment – Released today, this research showcases the differences between washing habits and impact areas across the globe; we also know from this data that some of the greatest water and energy impacts in the life of our products results from how consumers care for their jeans.

I think it’s amazing that they have managed to save 1 billion liters of water! It’s incredible to think just how much water gets used in the washing and making of jeans, so I’m glad they are taking action. I rarely ever wash my jeans myself purely because I’m a denim enthusiast that believes washing them too often ruins the wash and colour, so it’s good to know by doing that it’s actually helping out as well.

The study shows that of the nearly 3,800 liters of water used throughout the lifetime of a pair of jeans, cotton cultivation (68%) and consumer use (23%) continue to have the most significant impact on water consumption. Consumer care is also responsible for the most significant energy use and climate impact, representing 37 percent of the 33.4 kilograms of carbon dioxide emitted during the lifecycle of a jean. The new LCA expands on previous research to better understand the impact of cotton cultivation and includes data from the world’s primary cotton producing countries, including the United States, China, Brazil, India, Pakistan and Australia. It also analyzes consumer care data from new markets, including China, France and the United Kingdom, to understand the costs and benefits of differences in washing habits.

To reduce the impact of cotton consumption, LS&Co. is working with the Better Cotton Initiative® (BCI) to train farmers to grow cotton using less water. Based on the latest BCI harvest data available, in 2013, cotton farmers in China reduced their water use by 23 percent compared with farmers who were not using BCI techniques. LS&Co. plans to continue working with its global suppliers with the goal of sourcing approximately 75 percent Better Cotton by 2020, up from 6 percent today.

The new LCA also reveals that Americans use more water and energy to wash their jeans than consumers in China, France and the U.K. It shows that consumers in China wear their jeans, on average, four times before tossing them into the wash — and if American consumers did this, they could reduce the water and climate change impact from washing their jeans by 50 percent.

“It’s time to rethink autopilot behaviors like washing your jeans after every wear because in many cases it’s simply not necessary,” said Chip Bergh, CEO and president of LS&Co. “Our LCA findings have pushed us as a company to rethink how we make our jeans, and we’re proud that our water stewardship actions to date have saved 1 billion liters of water. By engaging and educating consumers, we can fundamentally change the environmental impact of apparel and, ideally, how consumers think about the clothes they wear every day.”

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Posted Jun 01 2015 in Campaigns » Denim News

Lara Stone & Justin Bieber For Calvin Klein Jeans


Supermodel Lara Stone and everyone’s love-to-hate-him pop star Justin Bieber are posing in a new Calvin Klein Jeans ad, which features Stone draped sensually over the young recording artist while he gazes to the side as if he… doesn’t notice. Oh wait, nevermind, he’s grabbing her lower butt cheek. The campaign (of which this is the first released photo) was shot by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott in New York City. The campaign also features the hashtag: #mycalvins

lara-stone-justin-bieber-calvin-klein-jeans-ad

Image via Fashion Gone Rogue.

—DT Staff

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Posted Jan 09 2015 in Campaigns » Celebrity Style Watch » Denim News
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