Clothing lines don’t normal anchor their spring/summer collections in dark, dystopian palettes–black navy and indigo are oft-chucked for brighter, sunnier hues–but Diesel Black Gold has flipped the norm for its 2013 collection. The results? Even if the styling isn’t conducive to NYC humidity (um, have you felt it lately?), we’re loving their use of graphic stripes and small but intense flashes of color amongst rich suedes and leathers. It’s purely steampunky and futuristic. In fact, the results look drop dead sexy–just take extra care not to drop dead in 100-degree weather.
Delayed but worth the wait: our report from the CLOSED FW’12 preview/presentation! It was our very last event during NYFW, winding down the whirl-wind week in the dimly lit lounge of the Bowery Hotel. We sipped whiskey sours and saw the collection modeled one ensemble at a time (on models who mingled and posed in a space open to everyone/anyone to jump in for a quick portrait). We were ecstatic to see a saturated cerulean blue jeans in the men’s collection, alongside an impeccably clean-cut denim workshirt, colored cords, and some two-toned knitwear that no man couldn’t find a way to work into his look.
The women’s collection was minimalist-preppy, with texture applied in maroon stripes and metallic embroidered polka-dot. We fawned over an elegant every-day layered one-piece tank top (uncomplicated despite its structure) and subtle tuxedo stripe chinos—a trend we were having a hard time loving until we saw the CLOSED adaptation. We posted about the full collection yesterday, so have a look if you missed it. Bottom line? This collection is clean, cool, and rich. Three things you can’t do fall without.
See our snaps from the presentation below.
We were thrilled to run into Lisette from Denimology while we were there!
Public School FW’12 at Milk Studios was a real trip. They basically nailed every menswear trend we love right now, and then added in uber-wide brimmed hats that made the guys look like patron saints of bad-ass. Tailored blazers and leather jackets stood effortlessly next to varsity-style Japanese biker gang zip-up’s and preppy knit cardigans. Cuffed raw jeans were clean and crisp next to tailored wool slacks and (for good measure) a kilt. We couldn’t help but feel that the sum of all these elements added up to the essentials for the hippest dressers in Brooklyn right now. Lucky for Public School, this appeal is universal.
See the muse of the collection (Twin Shadow front man George Lewis Jr.) in the video he helped produce especially for this season, below:
For New York Fashion Week, we pulled together seven fashion brands that drove denim to new levels and offered inspiration on what should be made in denim. We were so in love with some pieces that were not quite denim, that we threw those photos in for your ogling. We think you’ll forgive us.
Band of Outsiders—We’ve known for a while that the fashion houses have been fixated on Great Depression and Dustbowl era fashion, and there’s still a bit of this here, but with a mix of glam and luxury fabrics (we count suede and fur collars), there’s a sense that the sun-kissed models in workwear-inspired denim jumpsuits and white-collar attire, offers hope that there’s a light at the end of the tunnel. Images via Style.com.
Diesel Black Gold—From red to blue denim, not only has Diesel gone gaga over color, they’ve gone Jackson Pollock with their side-tie pants and cropped jeans. With a definite homage to an 80′s fashion trend, the paint splashes and printed jeans serve as a contradiction to their progressive leatherwear. We couldn’t escape the sense of a Mad Max meets Highlander effect when everything was pulled together. Images via Style.com.
Gilded Age—Stefan Miljanic brings motorcycle culture to the stage for fall, except with more refined touches in layering pieces and clean lines, even in their colored and gray jeans. Images via GQ online.
Nicholas K—Designers Nicholas and Christopher Kunz have made her collection all about draping and furthering the Depression era vibe utilizing desert hues: models wore flapper wigs and Silent Film cosmetic work; Western touches were seen throughout. Hints of denim made its way in, including a hooded denim shirt and an homage to the denim jacket. Images via Mercedes Benz Fashion Week online.
Rebecca Minkoff—Who knew she was also an apparel designer? Known largely for her handbags, long-time followers have looked forward to her return to clothing design, her first passion. We think her bright legging pants may as well segue into denim leggings. Her apparel debut at New York Fashion Week featuring an opening performance by Theophilus London, made a big splash. Images via Style.com.
Concept Korea (V)—In an effort to bring visibility to South Korea’s top fashion labels, this collective was born. In it’s second year at NYFW, Concept features five top Korean labels. Most notably, the design duo Steve Jung and Yoni Pai (of the brand Steve J & Yoni P) with collaborations between Topshop and 10 Corso Como (Seoul) under their belt, they make denim part of their repertoire. Images via WWDand Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week online.
Kelly Wearstler—As if to defy anybody who had any reservations about 80s fashions, this brand has committed wholeheartedly to the styling of acid wash jeans and stirrup leggings. Even if the ultra high-waisted acid wash zipper skirts aren’t your thing, you might just have a crush on the jackets. Images viaStyle.com.
DT attended the Levi’s Fall 2012 Global Collection Preview last week, witnessing an array of innovative exhibition-style representations of Levi’s brand DNA and current projects. Exhibits included a table full of utilities that represented the lifestyle of the commuter and jeans trapped in giant blocks of melting ice—the latter, a representation of the Water<Less effort.
A multi-tiered showing of the line included a presentation backdrop of models “getting dressed”, and a foreground runway show. The collection was a simplistic and sharp modern rendition of standard Levi’s principles, with crisp dark-wash denim, tailored tops, pop-colors, and a distinct kind of sex appeal that occurs because of clothing (rather than in its absence). Check out our photos and video of the event below—watch for the end of the runway show, which caps off with a live banjo performance.
New York Fashion Week may be in full swing, but we didn’t want to blow through the week without acknowledging the menswear fashion shows in Europe. Decidedly more subdued this time around, not to say there weren’t theatrics in play (Jean Paul Gaulter and Ann Demeulemeester notwithstanding) nor performance art (check out Thom Browne’s presentation), many brands incorporated denim into their Fall-Winter 2012 menswear collections while continuing to reach far back to source 300 years of fashion.
Agnès B infused denim into its Fall 2012 collection, which started off as a predictable menswear show, until it took a sharp turn towards androgyny with the introduction of a denim wrap skirt and tunic silhouettes which softened the male silhouette against cuffed, loose-fit jeans. Some of the models were styled with ballet flats, which was not lost on us.
Olivier Rousteing isn’t trying to rock the boat too much at Balmain, after stepping in for Christophe Decarnin. As you can see, jeans for men continue to be biker-chic, while the rest of the collection invokes the aristocracy of the Napoleonic era.
Your Milk Man or Soda Jerk is reincarnated, thanks to Dolce & Gabbana‘s continued retro motif, juxtaposing a bit of Dandy style with some Blue Collar appeal. Heavily whiskered jeans with a deep cuff signals a changing of the guard: the inseams and the rise are going up.
Dries Van Noten may be showing his appreciation for Dutch master painters (though he, himself, is Belgian): a warm orange jean is both trendy and classic-looking against the collection’s wild and experimental takes on the classic denim jackets. Evidently, the brand is not afraid to work outside the box.
Dsquared2has moved out of the Old West and continues to re-work denim in its various forms: a classic denim jacket holds metal appliques on its sleeves; drop-waist, contrast fabric waistband jeans are becoming the brand’s signature look, and an Argyle-washed chambray shirt was a creative turn and proof that the brand has placed a considerable amount of investment into denim fashion.
Images via Style.com. Stay tuned for more fashion show coverage, this time from New York!
Japanese brand White Mountaineering is said to be as technically strong as Visvim, and as fashion forward as Comme des Garçons. For Spring-Summer 2012, we see the man as the traveler through the desert, which is a change of landscape from its current Autumn-Winter 2011 collection in which the man braves the frosty wilderness. We don’t know this man, but we sense he is multifaceted; he’s a Bohemian punk rocker who absorbs a little bit of something from wherever he travels. Tribal motifs, Western shirt shoulder paneling, tattoo prints and patchwork denim provide a bit of rough, weathered and storied look that the collection conveys for the man who has a journey yet to take. Designer Yosuke Aizawa found a way to tastefully integrate denim into this collection’s DNA. And you thought White Mountaineering was just for hiking.
It’s no secret what big G-Star Raw fans we are, and as always, they do not disappoint us with their men’s and women’s line at the Bread & Butter Runway Show. They have staple pieces like denim workshirts, jean jackets and shorts, but what we love is how they put their own funky spin on them. This is best seen in the jean jacket that has side slits, making it resemble almost a poncho more than the common jean jacket. Most of the pieces in the collection have subtle but contrast stitching, giving the denim a structured and more polished look. Our favorite looks of the collection though were the ones that created sweet silhouettes, like the maxi denim skirt and and three-quarter sleeve A-line denim dress. The men’s pieces that really stood out to us were the printed denim coverall, light-wash denim blazer, and the denim jacket with contrasting washes. We are sad to say that the Bread & Butter line is never released for retail sale, but are definitely even more excited to see what G-Star Raw has in the future when we know that this is what they are capable of.
Denim Therapy has been so busy pounding the trade show floors that we barely had time to sleep. However, we couldn’t not talk about New York Fashion Week before we moved onto the next shows! Denim has gone glam in the form of metallic jeans for Spring 2012 (Diesel Black Gold), and there is a return to and continuation of patchwork and panel denim motifs (Charlotte Ronson and D&G). Although there were several other brands which had denim represented in their collections, we only chose to feature a few designer labels which we feel really worked with and integrated denim into their collections in a deeper sense. Which denim trend do you think will make a big splash come spring?
Diesel Black Gold Spring-Summer 2012: metallic jeans in reflective foil, reptilian and shimmery abalone-green hues offered lustre and texture to denim. The brand continues to redefine itself as not just a brand about blue jeans. More Diesel Black Gold online at Style.com.
Theyskens’ Theory Spring-Summer 2012: Olivier Theyskens still loves black and white, but he has thrown in vibrant acid-washed jeans and high-waisted, drop-crotch denim with drop-waist belt loops, creating an illusion of a low waist. Will this be the game changer? More Theyskens’ Theory online at Style.com.
Charlotte Ronson Spring-Summer 2012: Patchwork denim, denim and chambray panels, and denim pieced together with silk in muted and faded washes, shows Ronson’s desire to keep the fun, flirty and feminine in a woman’s everyday wardrobe. We loved that Ronson used denim as both the main ingredient and the accent fabric in this collection. More Charlotte Ronson online at Style.com.
D&G Spring-Summer 2012: Remember those menswear bandana silk shorts and shirts pieced together with denim? Now those same aesthetics have been reincarnated into women’s ready-to-wear in a variety of dresses. It’s a playful explosion of colors and patterns. However, the jury’s out on whether this collection is going to move the needle at retailers. More D&G online at Style.com.
We just got back from Jeremy Scott’s spring 2012 presentation at Milk Studios with the likes of Waris Ahluwalia and Peaches Geldof (and some dude on roller skates), and we were pleasantly surprised when the first four or five looks came parading down the runway. Head-to-toe denim! It translated quickly into neon colors, cactus-printed fabrics, assless-chaps and other design details that bring you straight back to a ’90s rave in an abandoned barn… but we gotta hand it to him—some of these womens’ denim looks were ready to wear right out onto the street (and we’d wear ‘em)!