The second batch of discoveries from our jaunt through Liberty Fairs is indigo-drenched. Indigo is a native plant in Japan and the history of Indigo dye on the small eastern island runs deep, back to the 10th century. The technique boomed during the Edo period (1192-1333) due to the dye’s ability to cling well to cotton, the popular fabric of the lower classes at the time. By the early 1900′s almost 1400 acres were covered in indigo crop in Japan, now a mere 70 acres. The process of dyeing naturally is laborious, time-consuming and is carried on by skilled artisans. Traditionally Sukumo leaves, wheat bran, sake, hardwood ash and lime are combined in vats and fermented to produce the ocean hue. In Japanese culture the dye has been believed to contain protective properties from warning off insects and snakes in fields to sparing firemen burns. Out of the hundreds of booths at Liberty Fairs two stood out to us: Blue Blue Japan and Koromo.
Blue Blue Japan began in 1993 and designer Kenji Tsuji has been designing there since 2006. His designs usually contain bold, graphic interpretations of traditional Japanese motifs and patterns (waves, the sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, etc.). When his pieces aren’t emblazoned with beautiful images they are simple and highlight the beauty of traditional indigo dye. Many of the shirts are made with a tie dye technique called Shibori or have a dip dyed ombre fade. The construction of the garments is based on farm work wear. You can find Blue Blue Japan products at Union Made Goods, Mr Porter, and Hickoree’s. Read more about Kenji at mrporter.com.
Below this tattered patched jacket read a sign “This 100 year old fabric is Aizome (Indigo dyed cloth). The well used areas of the fabric are where it has been hand sewn over and over again. The clothes have been made out of this fabric as is. In times when things were scarce in Japan even a little fabric was considered precious. This preciousness is found in this cloth.”
Traditional Japanese stitching technique, sashiko, used on button detail.
For more photos, style inspiration, and information on denim and indigo techniques check out the Denim Therapy Tumblr and Pinterest pages.
All photographs credited to the author.
Put your best foot forward this season with fresh kicks from some of our favorite brands. From leather sneakers to denim high-tops, there’s something for everyone. Pair them with your favorite jeans or a pair of crisply tailored pants. Browse and shop our favorite men’s sneakers below.
1. Visvim Skagway Denim and Suede Sneakers 2. Visvim Skagway Denim and Leather Sneakers 3. Balenciaga Arena Denim-Effect Leather High-Top Sneakers
4. Rick Owens DRKSHDW Canvas High-Top Sneakers 5. Common Projects Tournament Waxed-Suede High-Top Sneakers 6. Converse Jack Purcell Signature Nubuck Sneakers
Tags: Balenciaga sneakers, converse sneakers, fall sneakers, high-top sneakers, low top sneakers, men's sneakers, Rick Ownens sneakers, sneakers for men, Visvim sneakers
The freshest wardrobes for fall always have a bit of versatility, some solid basics, and outerwear options. From shearling lined denim jackets to casual-meets-dressy shoes and awesome headphones, you can browse and shop the best of fall’s offerings for men’s fall essentials below.
1. Maison Margiela Faux Shearling-Trimmed Denim Jacket 2. Corgi Striped Wool-Blend Socks 3. Frame Denim L’Homme Slim-Cut Stretch-Denim Jeans
4. McQ Alexander McQueen Patchwork Cotton-Chambray Shirt 5. Tod’s Suede Desert Boots 6. NN.07 Three Slim-Fit Raw Denim Jeans
7. Filling Pieces Suede and Lizard-Effect Leather Sneakers 8. Visvim Hobbs Denim Jacket 9. Bowers & Wilkins P5W Leather-Covered Wireless Headphones
Tags: Chambray Shirt, dark-wash jeans, Denim Menswear, denim shirt, designer headphones, dress shoes, fall essentials, men's jeans, men's shoes, men's sneakers, mens denim, patchwork denim, raw denim, Shearling Jacket, striped socks
The Denim Therapy team’s Market Week tour continued at Liberty Fairs held at Pier 94. The space was enormous with over one hundred booths to cover. We scoured the long aisles and prioritized. Our top priority? Denim. Our featured picks from the show are all Japanese and American brands including Feltraiger, Kato and Fullcount.
Feltraiger is a Brooklyn-based brand focused on making products you can pass down from generation to generation. Their customer base ranges from hardcore motorcyclists to anyone inspired by American subcultures of the 20th century. Feltraiger’s new Core collection features their bestselling basics. We’re fans of the Destitute Vest in indigo available for Fall 2015.
Th co-founder’s motorcycle parked in front of the new collection.
Destitute vest in indigo.
Kato jeans are made of Japanese denim, designed in Kyoto, and manufactured in Los Angeles. Kato was started by Hiroshi Kato in 1996 and has become one of our favorites. We favor the immaculate construction and details such as the diagonal belt loop and selvedge coin pocket. Highlights from the Spring 2016 line are the 13 oz. Raw Slim jean and a 7 oz Shawl Collar Blazer. Their leather patch has also been updated for the first time since the brand’s inception.
Perfect distressing detail on the hem of the shawl-style blazer lapel.
Fullcount denim is made in Okayama mills in Japan and was one of the first brands to start using Zimbabwe cotton back in 1992. Fullcount is here to stay, check out a peak of their Spring 2016 offerings below.
Rust-looking wash on Fullcount jeans.
Boro-like stitching detail on a chambray shirt.
All photos credited to the author.
—Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, DENIM, Feltraiger, Fullcount, Japan, Japanese denim, Kato, made in japan, market week, mens denim, menswear, raw denim
With Men’s Fashion Week came a flurry of activity here in New York. Amy Leverton left London behind and came stateside to promote her book Denim Dudes. Amy has worked in the industry for ten years and is currently the Director of Denim and Youth Culture at WGSN. For Denim Dudes Amy traveled the world photographing and interviewing eccentric denimheads. She chronicled the most interesting styles and global trends in denim cult culture. The book is stocked in most book stores and is also available on Amazon. The New York book launch was hosted by Loren Cronk at Loren in Greenpoint and we couldn’t endure the thought of missing it. The storefront doubles as a workshop where Loren still designs and constructs many jeans by hand. The small shop was packed tight with denimheads on a humid night in Brooklyn and we couldn’t have dreamt of a better venue.
Very amazing vintage jackets for sale.
Sewing patterns, bicycles, and colored lights hanging from the ceiling.
–Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, Amy Leverton, book launch, boutique, Denim Dudes, event, hand-made, Loren Cronk, market week, New York Fashion Week, selvedge, workshop
Our last pitstop at Project NYC was at the Raleigh Denim Workshop booth where we talked with co-founder and designer Victor Lytvinenko. Some of the new Summer 2016 pieces include navy hibiscus printed shorts and bright colored jeans in cream, rusty scarlet, sky blue and plum. The Alexander fit will be available in a light pin dot fabric recovered from the Cone Mills archive. Aside from fun, warm weather pieces Raleigh will still deliver the quality raw denim and selvedge we have come to expect from the southern brand next spring.
Victor was most enthused about the Jones 319 Raw and the Jones Organic Raw. The Jones 319 is a thin fit jean made of a non-selvedge raw denim for only $176, making it a great first purchase for those wanting to try their first pair of raw denim without having to pawn an heirloom. The Jones Organic Raw is made using the first and only organic denim grown and made in the U.SA. Raleigh teamed up with Cotton of the Carolinas and Cone Mills to create a denim that is organic and 100% made in the U.S.A., literally from the ground up.
The big picture isn’t the only thing on Victor’s mind, his attention to detail in his company’s designs is also impressive. We’re particularly keen on the triple stitch Raleigh uses on many of its selvedge fits. Two of the threads are gold and the third is indigo, camouflaging the heavy stitching and keeping a minimal look to the jeans. Once the denim fades over time the detail of the third dark navy stitch is revealed. Check out the photos we took at Project below.
Raleigh jeans continue to be capable of some really beautiful fades. An untouched pair is to the right and the whiskered pair on the left is the result of two years of wear.
New colors available Spring 2016.
The Alexander available soon in pin dot.
The Jones 319 Raw
Left: detail of subtle navy triple stitch. Right: the navy triple stitch revealed over time.
Strong honeycomb fades on a worn pair of Raleigh jeans.
–Emily B. McIntosh
Summer is more than half way over, and that means it’s time to start thinking about your fall wardrobe. It’s still warm as heck out there though (unless you’re in Australia), so finding men’s jeans that won’t smother you is key to staying stylish and feeling good through the final weeks of the season. Check out some of our favorite finds below, and let us know what you’re wearing on Instagram with the hashtag #denimtherapy.
1. Loro Piana Slim-Fit Denim Jeans 2. Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Slim-Fit Organic Dry Denim Jeans 3. Burberry Brit Slim-Fit Washed-Denim Jeans
4. Brunello Cucinelli Slim-Fit Denim Jeans 5. Acne Studios Ace Slim-Fit Washed-Denim Jeans 6. Frame Denim Rincon Slim-Fit Washed Denim Jeans
Tags: buy jeans online, denim for men, denim style, jeans for men, men's jeans, mens denim, summer denim
Last week at Project we had the chance to stop by the Jean Shop booth. Read on and check out the photos to see what we gleaned from our quick encounter during our preview of their Spring 2016 collection.
Conversations with denim heads combined with our intuition tells us that overalls and coveralls are going to make a strong comeback next year. Below is a prototype of a potential piece.
The personal touch of patches and repairs is timeless and certainly not going out of style any time soon. We saw extreme distressing, apparent darning, and patches galore during Market Week.
We strongly approve of the women’s denim vest in Jean Shop’s Spring 2016 collection.
We are always excited to see selvedge denim crossing into the women’s market. The Jean Shop Spring 2016 women’s selvedge shorts are kind of fulfilling our fantasies. We can only imagine the coolest of babes rocking orange selvedge shorts in the summer heat.
Jean Shop’s famous orange stitching and pockets.
A great styling suggestion after our own hearts from Jean Shop: denim on denim on denim. Triple the denim triple the fun.
–Emily B. McIntosh
Tags: American Denim, DENIM, Jean Shop, menswear, Spring 2016
When we think men’s summer style, we envision effortless and beach-ready (but also passable for the office). We’ve rounded up some of our favorite summer denim essentials, from white jeans to shades, beach towels and printed tees. Shop our favorite links below.
1. Acne Studios Ace Slim-Fit Stretch-Denim Jeans 2. OAMC Printed Cotton T-Shirt 3. Thierry Lasry Authority D-Frame Acetate Sunglasses 4. Frescobol Carioca Striped Linen Beach Towel 5. White Leather Fashion Trainers
What’s your summer style? Show us on Instagram and hashtag #denimtherapy.
Tags: buy denim online, buy jeans online, denim for men, jeans for men, men's white jeans, mens denim, summer denim trends, summer style, white denim, white jeans, white jeans for men
Summer is the perfect season to branch out from the norm and try a floral or tropical print. We love that this season, the offerings for men are more diverse and creative than ever. Our favorite pick? The Our Legacy floral print hemp & cotton blend chambray shirt:
“Created with a reverse printing method, this tonal-blue Our Legacy shirt offers a cool way to wear florals. Crafted from Japanese chambray, this regular-fit piece blends hemp and cotton for a slubby, tactile feel. Wear it solo in the summer with bright shorts, or layer it over similar styles during the colder months.” (Mr. Porter—buy it here).
Tags: buy denim online, chambray shirts for men, denim for men, denim shirts for men, Designer Denim, floral print, jean shirts for men, Mr Porter, our legacy, tropical print