From tattered and pulled to cut-up and patched the Spring/Summer 2011 collection from designer Mihara Yasuhiro gives us the perfect look for the guy who wants high-end urban tailoring infused with some serious street style. Essentially, the best of both worlds.
Though not really showing anything radically different, the eponymous label definitely did not disappoint. Staying true to its well-known aesthetic of classic but worn-out suiting mixed with outdoorsy gear the one thing that stood out more than anything (aside from fatigues in a camouflage pattern made up of flowers) was the increased use of denim. Though never shy to use it–all of his collections incorporate it in one way or another–this has definitely been his most denim driven collection to date, which of course we love.
Keeping with the idea of never looking too well put together Yasuhiro wisely added a variety of denim pieces ranging from jackets, shirts, and cut-off jeans to juxtapose the more prim tuxedo blazers and preppy staples like varsity style cardigans and sweatshirts. Sound like a lot going on? I didn’t even begin to mention the hints of desert living! Overall, the collection carried something that only Mihara Yasuhiro could achieve: an undeniable air of street elegance.
I typically like to focus on what’s up-and-coming in world of fashion, but when I came across the Fall/Winter 2010 campaign for Pepe Jeans I simply had to redirect my attention to the present. But let me tell you, they didn’t make it too difficult for me to do so. I’m talking moody, black and white images, great styling, and one of our favorite denim muses, Alexa Chung.
This marks Chungs second campaign for Pepe Jeans. The brand was brilliant to sign up the British it-girl last season for their Spring/Summer advertising campaign, and are wise to bring her back for another one. Though her time with MTV is done and over with this model turned presenter turned model again is definitely still on the radar of many, many fashion enthusiast making her a bonafied fashion commodity.
Giving the campaign a little masculine touch are Spanish it-boy Jon Kortajarena–who is my personal favorite male denim muse–and up-and-coming French fresh face, Gaspard Menier. The two add that little bit of that rugged beauty which further compliment Chungs gorgeous yet street chic appeal. You can see more of the 20 black-and-white images on the Pepe Jeans website.
Also, be sure to take a look at some of the behind the scenes footage of the making of the campaign on the Pepe Jeans Facebook page.
Tags: Alexa Chung, Gaspard Menier, Jon Kortajarena, Pepe Jeans
Recently, Supermodel mom and style icon Kate Moss was found on North London, putting down a few pounds — that’s pounds sterling for all you non-Brits — to buy presents for her daughter Lila Grace who just turned 8 years old.
Kate Moss out shopping in North London on September 29, 2010.
Kate Moss wears her SIWY Hannah jeans in One Love, as revealed by the tell-tale fleur-de-lys embroidery pocket.
Dressed in fall grays, Kate makes her Siwy Hannah jeans in One Love wash, look perfectly blended with her gray and black ensemble. But, this was not the only time she was spotted wearing her gray denim jeans. This past summer, she was photographed in gray jeans again, out having quality time with her daughter. Could gray denim be the new perfect go-to all-year jeans color?
— Kathy Ng Hassan
Kate Moss out with her daughter in July, 2010.
Tags: Siwy Denim
Now, I know that I’ve made comments about how too many designers have taken influence from the senventies lately, but that’s because they have! Everyone from Dries Van Noten, Derek Lam, and Elie Tahari has drawn inspiration from the era. Some good, some bad, and some too literal. But I have to say that one thing did stay consistent collection to collectino: the fresh yet old-school vibe of the wide-leg trouser.
With that said, move over skinny jeans, there’s a new look in town and it isn’t skin tight!
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com / Derek Lam S/S 2011
Skinnies have dominated the fashion world for what seems like forever, so in true fashion fashion there was bound to be a change. I think that we can all agree the transition started with the introduction of the boyfriend jean and then the harem pant, which gave way to a more relaxed and wider-set silhouette. But let’s be honest, everyone knows that they–as well as the skinny–are not always the most flattering.
So, what better timing for the come-back of the wide-leg trouser, right? Unlike the more slouchy look of the harem pant and the overall baggy aesthetic of the boyfriend jean, the wide-leg has a more streamlined and sophisticated look, not to mention that it flatters a lot more different body types. The higher rise helps to define the waist while the wide cut elongates the legs, making for a really graceful but sexy silhouette.
Now I’m not saying that this doesn’t have the potential to go completely wrong. I mean, too much of anything can result in some pretty bad looks. But done in a clean, and–as I always say–simple yet effective way the wide-leg has the potentiality of being the next ‘must have’ denim style.
The question is, are you ready to ditch your skin tight companions? What do you think? Is it really time to say goodbye to your skinnies?
Tags: Derek Lam, Dries Van Noten, Elie Tahari, wide-leg denim
Edwin Jeans' ED-47 'Rainbow Selvage" seam. Available at FUSShop.
We are asked what is the difference between “raw” denim and selvedge quite frequently, because, quite frankly, denim terminology can be confusing. In an effort to not get too technical, here are some basic definitions.
I LIKE IT RAW
Raw Denim is denim in its original state: unwashed, untreated, unfaded and unprocessed. It is sometimes called “Dry Denim.” It is indigo denim straight off the looms. Jeans can be made from this raw denim straight from the roll. Raw denim can be hard to distinguish with the naked eye or even with hand feel, because there are many resin and super-saturated wash styles which mimic the desirable features of raw denim.
SELVEDGE OR SELVAGE, THAT IS THE QUESTION
Selvedge (or selvage) denim is woven on traditional, 100-year-old wooden shuttle looms. Selvedge is referred to the type of weaving process, and not to denim, specifically. Denim woven from traditional wooden shuttle looms use a continuous thread that goes back and forth in the weaving process, ultimately creating a closed-off, non-fraying self-edge (also known as selvage edges). The slow shuttle looms produce a tight weave and uses more thread. As a result, it is more costly. To maximize usage, companies would use the denim all the way to the self-edge, hiding the edges in the sewing process. Today, selvedge aficionados often reveal show off their selvedge seams (found on the outseam) by folding up the hems, revealing the identity of the superior textile.
An example of a selvedge edge (self-edge) on a fabric.
The selvedge seams are sewn together by fabric mills using different thread colors, depending on the factory’s color coding system.
For more technical definitions, check out the Denim wiki.
Are you a Denim Head? Contribute your knowledge!
— Kathy Ng Hassan
Tags: definitions, dry denim, raw denim, selvage, selvedge
At a recent trade show in New York, I stumbled upon denim brand Won Hundred. Hailing from Denmark, this brand combines all the elements of effortless style. Their fall collection features a dark palette and classic silhouettes that make me want to curl up with a cup of coffee. Their denim is heavenly — I couldn’t stop touching the fabric at the trade show.
The brand already has a devoted following in Europe and has recently come to the US. It is sold in a few boutiques in New York and is available online. It is sold at Urban Outfitters in Europe so maybe it will be in their US stores by the time the beautiful Spring Collection comes out. With prices ranging from $145-$225 for jeans, Won Hundred will soon find a place in your heart, and your closet.
WHERE TO BUY:
28 Bond St (between Lafayette and Bowery)
198 Smith St (between Baltic and Warren)
Locate online retailers via Shopstyle
— Laura Kealey
Tags: Danish denim brand, Denmark, Won Hundred
Well, it’s no secret that we all love denim here. We love to wear it, shop for it, dig through our closets for it–you get the picture. It’s also no secret that we love to look at it, especially in the many denim adverts we come across while thumbing through a magazine or browsing our favorite fashion sites and blogs. Oh, and we can’t forget those astronomically large and attention-grabbing billboards that showcase them on a major level. From high-end designer denim to the more moderately priced, there is so much time, effort, and money that goes into these campaigns that ultimately serve to entice us. But what is it about them that intrigues us, really?
I think most would agree that more often than not it’s the overall statement that does the trick. The lifestyle. The story that’s persuading us to fall in love–and sometimes in lust–with the picture, and ultimately the product, which in this case would be our guilty pleasure, denim. But beyond the punchy images, the dash of humor, irony, art, and not to mention sensuality, what is it ultimately that reaches out to us that makes the whole thing so memorable? Think about it, what would your reaction be if all you saw up on a huge billboard was a pair of jeans on a hanger?
Ultimately what completes it all and breathes life into these campaigns are the muses! The models, actors, and celebs that add that final splash of a allure.
Let’s face it, what would that iconic 1981 Calvin Klein Jeans campaign have been without Brooke Shields? “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” Imagine, what impact would it have had if anyone else had said it? Of course we’ll never know, but it was the teenage Shields who brought in that je ne sais quoi.
Photo by Richard Avedon
Needless to say this campaign created a recurring theme for the brand, which went on to be one of the most commercially successful designer labels for thirty years, and I think it’s safe to say that it was in huge part thanks to Shields.
A decade later Klein set out to do it again. The muse this time: then 18-year-old Kate Moss. Moss appeared topless wearing CK underwear hitched over the waistband of her jeans. Also adding to this iconic campaign was the unequivocal star of ads, Mark Wahlberg who was better knows as Marky Mark at the time.
Photo by Bruce Weber
Moss has continued to be the muse for Calvin Klein to present day. The iconic 90s adverts and Moss changed the course of fashion single-handedly bringing in the age of grunge and what she’s come to be infamously known for, the era of “heroin chic” a look characterized by pale skin and jutting bones and an androgynous appeal. A look which to today is still sought after by many designers, and which is still used as a source of inspiration.
It’s safe to say that no one has been able to match the success that Moss has had, but one girl who had definitely given her a run for her title is none other than Erin Wasson. Not only does this native Texan have “the look” but she has the style and the attitude to have successfully earned her place as one of the hottest models in the world.
The original Model Off Duty, whose peculiar yet effortless style of sportswear meets grunge and haphazard taloring, has taken a hiatus from full-time modeling. Not to say she hasn’t been the muse for many a campaign. The Maybelline New York spokesmodel has worked with every major international photographer and fashion designer and has graced the cover of Allure, French Vogue, and The Facejust to name a few. She was most recently in a multimedia campaign for denim brand William Rast in which she starred alongside co-owner of the brand Justin Timberlake. It must have been her Southern belle politeness and refinement yet devil-may-care attitude that landed her the part of Timberlakes love interest.
What’s so great about Wasson is that she refuses to just be another face. She may not be a full-timemodel anymore but that’s because she’s got a heavy hand in the creative side of the fashion world as a designer for RVCA designing her own line of low-key, chic grunge looks (including a denim range) rightfully called Erin Wasson x RVCA proving that a muse goes beyond only selling you that one pair of jeans on a billboard. What really gets us and intrigues us about them is their passion and infatuation for creating this world and culture we all love called fashion. The jeans are just an added perk!
Do you have any denim muses? Share with us, we’d love to know!
Tags: Brooke Shields, Calvin Klein Jeans, Erin Wasson, Erin Wasson X RVCA, Kate Moss, Mark Wahlberg
With so many designers paying homage to the seventies for fall and spring, I have to say it was a big breathe of fresh air to see Charlotte Ronson’s tribute to the nineties. No, I’m not talking 90210 nineties, think more Claire Danes in “My So-Called Life” nineties. Cue the ditsy florals, and plaid!
Now before you cringe let me affirm that if grunge could ever be done in a pretty, feminine, and even romantic way Ronsons’ way is it! She showed us the expected nineties staples such as Slouchy sweaters, plaid shirts (tied around the waist, of course), long flowy dresses with floral patterns, loose beanies and scrunched-down socks while modernizing it with tops in sheer fabrics and–somehow–a more clean though very nineties grunge stylistic approach. Each model had long, flowing locks, stringy little braids and nose-rings! Is this bringing back any memories yet?
But wait a second! Grunge–and the nineties for that matter–would have been nothing without denim. Though Ronsons’ collection wasn’t too denim heavy as far as fabric goes she did utilized a lot of fresh denim blue hues throughout the collection. And when it came down to it, the denim pieces she did incorporate were just right! I mean, you can’t have grunge without a denim vest! And what would the nineties have been without overalls, or in this case an overall-esque, ankle length denim dress. Like I said: just right!
Photographs by Andr? Lucat; Style.com
All-in-all Ronson took the best of a decade know for its free and chaotic spirit and managed to produce a collection with the perfect balance between edgy and soft, grungy and (get this) romantic, and most definitely nostalgic but oh so modern.
— Sandoval Gomez
Tags: Charlotte Ronson, Grunge Style/Fashion, S/S 2011