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WWD News: Topman Unveils Men’s Designer Winners, Buckle, Aeropostale Lead Specialty Earnings Pack, Spotlight on Coddington… “The Day Before” to Debut… and more news!

I just wanted to say, I miss Full Frontal fashion and I can not wait to see The September Issue!  


–Nikki Cho Russo

Topman Unveils Men’s Designer Winners


From WWD ISSUE 08/21/2009


topman-winnerMILAN ??” The British Fashion Council (BFC) on Thursday launched NewGen Men, a new sponsorship program by Topman, which aims to support emerging men??™s wear talent, and named the award??™s inaugural recipients. 

Designers Carolyn Massey and James Long will receive funding and be given the opportunity to show their spring 2010 men??™s wear collections at Somerset House on Sept. 23 during London Fashion Week, a day after the close of the women??™s runway season in the British capital. 

Massey and Long, both 28 and former Royal College of Art graduates, were selected by a panel of key opinion-makers from media and retail including representatives from Esquire, Fantastic Man, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Topman. 

???We hope that NewGen Men will support London??™s future men??™s wear stars and become a key part of the British Fashion Council??™s designer development and showcasing program,??? said Simon Ward, BFC joint chief executive officer. 

The award mirrors long-standing female counterpart New Generation, whose past winners include Alexander McQueen, Sophia Kokosalaki, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh and Julien Macdonald, and builds on the success of Topman and Fashion East??™s MAN show during LFW, which strives to promote promising young British men??™s wear designers. 

???[NewGen Men is] an exciting initiative that rightfully positions men??™s wear at the forefront of fashion, providing a deserved platform for the very best men??™s wear maturing talent,??? said Gordon Richardson, Topman??™s design director. 

Massey launched her London-based label in 2006, while Long debuted his collection at LFW??™s MAN show in 2007.



Buckle, Aeropostale Lead Specialty Earnings Pack



From WWD ISSUE 08/21/2009


buckle1Teen retailing??™s two top performers Thursday continued to outpace their specialty store competitors with double-digit increases in second-quarter sales and profits. 

In reporting stellar quarterly results, The Buckle Inc. and A?©ropostale Inc. pulled well ahead of the pack ??” and marginally above analysts??™ consensus expectations ??” at a time when, confronted by weak mall traffic and indifferent consumers, most youth-focused chains would be content to simply tread water. 

If there are questions about the two specialty retailers among investors, they stem from their ability to sustain such strong performances. 

A?©ropostale??™s shares rose 0.6 percent to $35.88 before its results were released and were up another 0.3 percent in after-hours trading. However, following its morning release, Buckle??™s shares dropped 3.9 percent to $26.84 despite a 12.2 percent increase in second-quarter net income, accompanied by a 13.6 percent gain in revenues and an 8.6 percent climb in comparable-store sales. 

???There??™s always the question: how long can this go on???? said Marie Driscoll, an equity analyst at Standard & Poor??™s. 

buckle2Investors appear worried that Buckle may be unable to sustain its remarkable comp performance ??” highlighted by a 20.6 percent gain last year. The Kearney, Neb.-based firm??™s comps have been slipping since May, when the company reported a 13.4 percent jump, followed by a 9.4 rise in June and a 2.8 percent increase in July. In the third quarter, it??™s up against a 23.7 percent comp increase, a number achieved despite the near meltdown in the credit markets that stopped consumer spending in its tracks in mid-September. 

Despite the challenge of sustaining its recent successes, Driscoll said Buckle, which operates 401 stores in 41 states, has the potential to grow to 500 to 600 stores. ???There are a lot of other regions where they can go,??? she said. 

For the quarter ended Aug. 1, Buckle posted net income of $25 million, or 54 cents a diluted share, 2 cents better than analysts expected, compared with profits of $22.3 million, or 48 cents, in the year-ago period. Revenue rose to $196.9 million from $169.8 million in the 2008 quarter, including a 39 percent jump in direct sales to $10.1 million. 

Men??™s, down to 40 percent of sales from 46.5 percent a year ago, declined about 2 percent as Buckle faced the anniversary of last year??™s strong Ed Hardy launch. Women??™s sales rose 27.5 percent and now account for 60 percent of net sales, up from 53.5 percent a year ago. 

The critical denim category accounted for 35.5 percent of sales, up from 35 percent in last year??™s quarter. Buckle, which lauds itself as a ???denim destination,??? increased its average denim price point in the men??™s division by 10.4 percent to $87.60 and 10.9 percent to $89.30 in the women??™s division. 

Click here for the full story


Memo Pad: Spotlight on Coddington… “The Day Before” to Debut…

by WWD Staff

From WWD ISSUE 08/21/2009


The French Vogue piece follows an article in the fall 2009 issue of T magazine, in which Coddington confesses she slyly used filmmaker R.J. Cutler??™s crew for espionage purposes. ???They were following Anna in the art department, listening to her reaction to my pictures. So I would ask them, ???What did she say? Did she like them???™??? As for stealing Wintour??™s thunder, Coddington demurred: ???It wasn??™t intentional.??? ??” Miles Socha

WELL RED: Vogue??™s creative director, Grace Coddington, continues to win far more than 15 minutes of fame for her scene-stealing turn in ???The September Issue,??? the documentary film about the magazine that premiered earlier this week. The September issue of French Vogue, arriving on newsstands Monday, devotes four pages to the flame-haired editor, including one devoted to tear sheets from her modeling days. The accompanying two-page article delves into her sometimes-prickly relationship with editor in chief Anna Wintour and contains this zinger: ???Anna and I, we??™ve known each other a long time.??¦We have a real mutual respect for each other, even though sometimes I feel like killing her.??? It??™s a sentiment Coddington also expresses in the documentary.


the-day-beforeCOMEBACK ??” SORT OF: Sundance is reviving the ???Full Frontal Fashion??? brand to encompass a blitz of fashion programming pegged to New York Fashion Week. 

The original ???Full Frontal Fashion??? television show was discontinued in January amid disputes at parent company Rainbow Media Holdings, a Cablevision subsidiary that also owns Sundance. But the show isn??™t coming back per se ??” ???We don??™t necessarily think that shooting runway shows is a very Sundance way to do it,??? said Sundance general manager Sarah Barnett delicately ??” but a mix of television programming and Web content, much of it original, will fall under its umbrella. 

Barnett said that when it comes to fashion, Sundance is most interested in showing the creative process. ???For us, it??™s not about the trendy ??” it??™s just about this dramatic, entertaining and, above all, creative perspective,??? she said. 

The four-part ???The Day Before??? series is the centerpiece of the TV effort. Director Lo??c Prigent, whose previous credits include ???Sign?© Chanel??? and a 2007 feature on Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, follows four designers in the manic 36 hours preceding their shows. Shooting over the past year, Prigent captured Sonia Rykiel??™s 40th anniversary celebration and Jean Paul Gaultier??™s haute couture show in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld??™s fall 2009 Fendi show in Milan and Proenza Schouler??™s fall 2009 collection in New York. 

Click here for the full story


PARIS POP: It appears last year??™s Gap + Colette New York pop-up shop was more than a one-off for the American retail giant. WWD hears Gap will reprise its mass-meets-Parisian-concept shop again, this time with Merci, the French concept shop opened earlier this year by former Bonpoint owners Marie-France and Bernard Cohen. Merci, which sells a curated selection of home wares, fragrances and children??™s and women??™s wear, is known as much for its fashion as its charitable angle: All proceeds are donated ??” after taxes, rent and employees are paid, however. Gap is said to be importing Merci??™s philanthropic style for a monthlong stint at the Fifth Avenue and 54th Street store beginning Sept. 10.

THE BIG 4-0: Browns, the London retailer that launched many a designer??™s career, is gearing up for a big 40th anniversary celebration in the spring. The store, founded by Joan and Sydney Burstein and now run by their children, Simon Burstein and Caroline Collis, has asked designers including Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani to take part in an exhibition that charts the past four decades in fashion ??” and Browns??™ impact on the London retail scene. The store, which brought labels such as Missoni, Donna Karan and Comme des Gar?§ons to the U.K. and talent-spotted fashion students including John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan, also boasts a star-studded list of former employees, including Manolo Blahnik, Paul Smith, Richard James, Tamara Mellon and Sir Philip Green.

IN THE HOUSE: Like grads gearing up for a reunion, a group of former Vogue staffers-turned-designers have decided to band together for Fashion??™s Night Out on Sept. 10. The lines Hester, Mauricio Quezada, Duskin, Doucette Duvall, Thread Social, Prova, Gryphon and Wren will take over the Bellhaus Bond Street pop-up store for their own temporary pop-up space, part of a miniblock party with the adjacent Billy Reid and Rogan boutiques. Dubbed the Vogue Alumni House (they boast two former Andr?© Leon Talley assistants, two fashion writers and a jewelry and watch editor among their ranks), the evening will include DJ sets by Sebastian Kim, Johnny Misheff and Skaught and customized Fashion Night Out T-shirts for sale. ???Hello??? name tags and drink tickets not included.

EXCHANGE PROGRAM: Two shopping streets ??” one in London, the other in New York ??” will take part in a Freaky Friday-style experiment starting later this month. A group of retailers based on London??™s Newburgh Street, off Carnaby Street, and others in New York??™s Lower East Side will get a taste of the retail scene in each other??™s cities as part of a temporary location swap. From Thursday through Sept. 13, 15 London labels, including Twenty8Twelve, Fred Perry and jeweler The Great Frog, will set up in a space on Orchard Street in the Lower East Side. Meanwhile, from Oct. 1 through Nov. 1, 15 Lower East Side-based boutiques including Earnest Sewn, Wendy Mink Jewelry and By Robert James will take up residence in pop-up spaces on Newburgh Street, London and in nearby Lowndes Court. The stores will remain open in their respective cities during the swap. ???The Newburgh Quarter and Lower East Side swap is a great story about the strength of the independents in both of these areas, most of whom will never have retailed outside of their own country before,??? said Simon Quayle, director of Shaftesbury Plc, which owns and manages the stores in the Carnaby Street area, and whose company conceived the idea. ???We are always on the lookout for exciting and innovative retail concepts from overseas, and hopefully this swap could lead to some of the New York brands looking for a permanent shop in our area.???

–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 21 2009 in Uncategorized

Gilded Age: Crafting Denim The Old School Way



Gilded Age, a New York based denim label, gets as old school as you can ever imagine.  With attention to detail, their products are handcrafted using some of the oldest machinery, oldest natural dyes and methods of construction known to man.  The outcome is a beautifully unique vintage, imperfect and weathered appearance.

Going back in time, dye methods using volcanic mud dyeparchmentnatural charcoal, tea, logwoodJapanese Alder and natural indigo are used in a variety of their products.  Their jeans are made of natural indigo dye taken from the natural indigo plant, a rare method used today by a very small number of denim new-natural-japanese-alder-teascompanies. Some of their knitted garments are made of 100% organic cotton created in the small artisanal natural dye studios. In the spirit of years gone by, some knitted garments are knitted on “Hung Up” jersey machines which were a staple in knitting from 1870’s through the 1960’s. There are very few machines in the world of this kind.  Some of their knits are also hand knitted the old fashion way with needles and yarn using the finest Mongolian cashmere for its’ compact, tight knitted softness.  


How much more authentic can it get?  I suppose “mass production” are blasphemous words for the Gilded Age, but with that you’ll be paying a premium for such carefully crafted garments. Prices for jeans start at $298 for the “Gotham” straight leg with red selvage to $548 for the “Gotham” straight leg vintage wash with red selvage.  Currently they only offer a men’s line, but a women’s line is soon to come.  Hats off to Gilded Age for keeping it real!




"Gotham" Straight Leg Jean with Red Selvage

Gotham Straight Leg Jean with Red Selvage

Gotham Straight Leg Selvage

Gotham Straight Leg Vintage Washed with Red Selvage














Shop Gilded Age


–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 20 2009 in Uncategorized

WWD News: Brett Favre for Wrangler Campaign, Vegas Men’s Preview, Odin Owners Expands, Hello Kitty Turns 35!

In today’s WWD I’ve posted relevant denim stories, but one honorable mention that I had to include was Hello Kitty turning 35.  Always the master of extraordinary vision is Linda Farrow who designed an adorable sunglass for Hello Kitty.  I must have it!  

Happy reading my Denim Therapy friends!

–Nikki Cho Russo


wranglerHUT, HUT, HIKE: Wrangler couldn??™t have timed it better when it comes to Brett Favre. The news of the 39-year-old quarterback joining the Minnesota Vikings comes just as Wrangler is unveiling a new fall ad campaign for its Five Star Premium Denim label, featuring Favre.

???For Wrangler, whatever Brett??™s decision is on whether or not to retire doesn??™t matter to us either way,??? said Jenni Broyles, senior marketing communications manager for Wrangler??™s mass business. ???Brett makes a great spokesperson for Wrangler because he truly is a Wrangler guy and lives the Wrangler lifestyle. Our partnership is effective because it??™s based on this sincere connection to the Wrangler consumer and his career decisions are not changing that.???

The new campaign, which features the theme ???You Can Count on Wrangler: Comfort, Quality, Value,??? includes television, print, radio and online components. The first television ads break this week. Along with a campaign for the Wrangler Jeans Co. label, featuring NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt Jr., Wrangler expects to make 3.4 billion media impressions this fall.


Vegas Preview: Capsule Time



the-local-firmTHE LOCAL FIRM 

Designers Richard Hutchinson and Axel Nyhage worked at Acne, Whyred and Tiger of Sweden before launching this Swedish label. Now in its fourth season, the collection makes its U.S. debut at Capsule. The ???contrast of status??? concept combines high fashion with innovative jeans. The designers explore contrasts and take inspiration from the Bauhaus movement. Among the items showcased are T-shirts that will retail for $95, jeans for $245 and $298 and sweaters for $245. 



London designers Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins have been designing wearable yet distinctive clothes for 14 years under their label YMC, which stands for You Must Create. The label has gained a following for its minimalist spins on trends, and has been compared with Helmut Lang or APC, but with lower prices. Now it??™s even more affordable, offering a secondary range of basics called, aptly, YMC Basic, which retails for $40 to $120. It includes polos, shorts, pullovers and cardigans.


Acne??™s secondary line is making its U.S. trade show debut at Capsule. The line has started to reflect the theme of the main collection, which this season is a story about a boy and a girl who find their parents??™ ???Harvest Moon??? record by Neil Young. But the Pop Classics prices are lower than Acne??™s, for the younger brother of the Acne consumer. (The sister, too, as the company is also launching its first full women??™s collection.)




odyn-vovkODYN VOVK
Austin Sherbanenko designs Odyn Vovk, which means ???One Wolf??? in Ukrainian. His work reflects his youth and anything that sparks his curiosity. For spring, his third season, he was inspired by past events evoking dirt-ridden streets, industrial landscapes and sounds of music. Sherbanenko is planning a runway show for the upcoming New York Fashion Week. At Capsule, the company will be showcasing its OV line, which centers around basics at lower price points. Among the offerings will be knitwear, T-shirts, leggings and items constructed from hemp. Wholesale prices range from $45 to $115.



Vegas Preview: Reinventions and Returns at ENK


From WWD ISSUE 08/20/2009

Fred Perry (Photo by Courtesy Photo)

Fred Perry (Photo by Courtesy Photo)

Fred Perry 

Tennis, anyone? 

At Fred Perry, it??™s all about the racket sport as the core Authentics collection embraces tennis influences for spring. 

???We really went back to our heritage and a clean, unfussy, pure and timeless aesthetic for this collection,??? said John Young, U.S. country manager for the British-based brand, which was founded in 1952. ???We have a lot of great whites, of course, but also tartan swimwear and woven shirts, which look great with shorts or white jeans.??? 

The brand??™s signature tipped polos come in 36 different colors, including bold pinks, bright blues and vivid yellow, available in both classic and slim fits. Polos, at $74 retail, comprise almost 25 percent of the brand??™s U.S. business, with track jackets, at $89.50, contributing another 15 percent. 

The brand is sold in about 140 U.S. doors, leaving it a lot of room to grow, said Young, especially in comparison with a brand like Lacoste. ???We??™ve been a niche brand that??™s been under the radar, so we??™re actually seeing growth, even during these tough times,??? he added. 

Also at ENK will be the brand??™s upscale Laurel label, which is priced about 20 percent higher than Authentics and sold in about 20 luxury retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman and Ron Robinson. The collection is made in Europe, versus China for the lower-priced line, and features dressy fabrics and sober color palettes such as chocolate, navy and mahogany. 

Similarly, the company??™s six-season deal for the fashion-forward Fred Perry by Raf Simons line ??” think orange slim-fit shorts ??” is sold in about the same number of exclusive doors, including Neiman Marcus and Opening Ceremony. 

Fred Perry, which is owned by Japan??™s Hit Union Co., opened its first U.S. store in New York??™s SoHo in February. The company is looking for a NoLIta location for its Laurel collection. 

A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz  (Photo by Courtesy Photo)

A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz (Photo by Courtesy Photo)



A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz 

After nearly two years out of the marketplace, designer Allen Schwartz is returning to the men??™s wear arena for spring. At the ENK Vegas show, look for the A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz label??™s laid-back approach to West Coast style, with classic designs gussied up with contemporary fashion details. 

???These are the essentials of a man??™s wardrobe, with close attention to detail,??? said Matthew Klein, director of sales and merchandising at the company, which is headquartered in Los Angeles but conducts sales out of New York. ???I think guys today aren??™t looking for trends or fads, but pieces that offer longevity.??? 

Bloomingdale??™s already has picked up the brand for spring in nine doors, and Klein ??” who is a former partner in the now-defunct Trafic trade show and was a co-founder of the Carp?© men??™s label ??” is looking to grow the brand in specialty store accounts. Denim jeans, twill shorts, jersey knit polos, chambray and oxford cloth shirts are among the key offerings for spring. Stenciled chest pockets, epaulets and contrast plackets on shirts are some of the defining design elements in the debut collection. 

With the entire collection made in the U.S., wovens will retail from $145 to $165; polos, for $125; twill bottoms, for $198; shorts, for $185, and denim, for $205. There are about 35 pieces in two spring deliveries, with various colorways bringing the total number of styles available to about 50. 

Schwartz sold men??™s under his Allen B. label for three years, before it was discontinued and became a women??™s-only brand exclusive to J.C. Penney.

Click here for the full story


Odin Owners Continue to Expand Their Reach


From WWD ISSUE 08/20/2009


Eddy Chai and Paul Birardi of Odin (Photo: Melissa Hom)

The owners of Odin, the influential Manhattan men??™s boutiques, are spreading their wings with projects, including a third Odin location, Odin fragrances, a consulting business, and a contemporary label they are launching in collaboration with Duckie Brown. 

Owners Edward Chai and Paul Birardi are also undergoing a downtown real estate shuffle that involves absorbing Den, their rotating single-brand concept, into the Odin flagship on Lafayette Street, while Oliver Spencer moves from the West Village into the old Den space on East 11th Street, and a third Odin launches in the old Oliver Spencer space. (Chai and Birardi are investors in Oliver Spencer as well.) 

Den, which has featured a string of emerging brands such as Tim Hamilton and Engineered Garments, will have a clearly defined space and separate entrance on Lafayette. The next brand to be showcased there will be Nice Collective. 

The third Odin, opening in early September, will have 600 square feet at Greenwich Street and West 11th Street, and extends the chain to five units, including Den and women??™s store Pas de Deux, which Chai and Birardi opened last year. 

???It??™ll have the same feel as on Lafayette, while incorporating the neighborhood charm,??? said Chai. 

The original Odin landed on East 11th in 2004, and grew fast from a neighborhood favorite to an international men??™s wear destination. Last year, a vendor survey found Odin to be the third most influential men??™s store in America after Barneys New York and Fred Segal. 

???Eddy and Paul are incredibly talented, because they??™ve turned Odin into this very visible store in terms of fashion, and they obviously know what they??™re doing, because they continue to do well,??? said Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown. 

As a result, Chai and Birardi have formed a consulting firm called Foundry NYC with beauty entrepreneurs Kelly Kovack, co-founder of Rescue, and Larry Paul, co-founder of Sharps. The firm will advise clients on design, merchandising, store concepts, branding, financial strategy and more. 

The inaugural project for this group was the creation of Odin fragrances ??” three unisex scents, which will retail for $110 a bottle, starting in October. 

But Chai and Birardi say Den, their rotating single-brand store, was the catalyst to becoming consultants. 

???Really, when we were doing Den, what we offered designers ??” if they wanted it ??” was information on how sales were going, who was buying what, sales trends, missed opportunities,??? and designers were using the space as a lab for developing their own retail concepts, new categories and other projects, said Birardi. ???So Den was evolving to become what we??™re doing with Foundry.??? 

Chai and Birardi are also collaborating with Duckie Brown designers Daniel Silver and Steven Cox on a classic collection called Edward, which will launch exclusively in Odin stores at contemporary prices. 

???We??™ve sold Duckie Brown for four seasons and we carry their Florsheim footwear now,??? said Birardi. ???It??™s really resonating with our customers. We all really get along. And Edward started from a conversation with them about what we felt was missing from the store.??? 

They dubbed it Edward because each of the four claimed a family member with that name and felt it sounded distinguished.


Cat Power: Hello Kitty Turns 35


From WWD ISSUE 08/20/2009

Linda Farrow Sunglasses (Photo by Courtesy Photos)

Linda Farrow Sunglasses (Photo by Courtesy Photos)



TOKYO ??” Japan??™s most fashionable feline is gearing up to mark her 35th birthday this fall with a long list of special products and festivities. 

Sanrio, the parent company of the Hello Kitty brand, is planning to fete the cartoon cat??™s Nov. 1 birthday with a host of fashion-related products, from a one-of-a-kind gem-encrusted necklace to iPhone cases by Kimora Lee Simmons and limited edition Asics sneakers. 

???We want to talk about the essence of Hello Kitty,??? explained Janet Hsu, the Los Angeles-based president of Sanrio global consumer products. 

Les Bijoux de Sophie necklace (Photo by Courtesy Photo)

Les Bijoux de Sophie necklace (Photo by Courtesy Photo)

Hsu said Hello Kitty products rake in worldwide sales of more than $5 billion annually. ???A huge percentage of that is in the fashion category,??? she explained, adding the brand is seeing ???tremendous strength??? in fine jewelry. The company declined to break down sales by product category. 

Over the years, Hello Kitty??™s image has graced almost every conceivable product, from scented erasers to Fender guitars. She has two theme parks in her native Japan and there is even a Hello Kitty-themed maternity hospital in Taiwan. At Sanrio headquarters in Tokyo, visitors sip Hello Kitty??™s own brand of green tea out of Hello Kitty cups as they sit in Hello Kitty chairs.




–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 20 2009 in Uncategorized

DIY: How to Hem Your Jeans Tutorial


For those of us who have our own home sewing machines, I’m sure many of us have tried to hem our own jeans.  I know I have.  I’m still a novice, so sewing a hem that looks professional on a pair of jeans hasn’t been all that successful on my part.  That’s why I’ll scour the Internet for folks like Dacia Ray, who provides a do-it-yourself tutorial on how to alter and sew your own denim hems.  Her method also works for denim skirts.  What’s also great is Dacia will answer any questions you may have on your DIY hemming endeavor.  

From DaciaRay:

I found this fabulously perfect way to hem jeans on the Cavaricci site, which has since been taken down, so here??™s the lowdown. This method keeps the original hem in tact and is especially helpful now that all jeans are made to be 34 inches long for mammoth supermodels. Plus, it took less than 30 minutes.  Click here to read the entire blog. 

Now, if you have hems that are damaged: hems that are scuffed, frayed and unravelled, you may want to seek Denim Therapy’s expertise.  The in-house artisans can work miracles by restoring your beloved jeans!

Otherwise, I usually take my extra long designer jeans to my tailor.  I would love to save more money and gas (my tailor’s shop isn’t too close), so I’m not totally giving up on doing my own hems. 

Credit goes to Amy, a.k.a. @RedDuchess on Twitter for the referral!

Kathy Ng Hassan 

Posted Aug 19 2009 in Uncategorized

Denim Insider: Kuyichi, Premium Denim with a Conscience




















Pure Plus


Pure Plus




Kuyichi, named after a Peruvian rainbow god, is a denim label that launched in 2001 in the Netherlands. The first denim label to use organic cotton with three main objectives: to be authentic, fairly traded and most importantly, eco-friendly.   Founded by Solidaridada Dutch NGO that fights poverty in the South by helping to set up sustainable supply chains and promoting fair trade products. Kuyichi strives to create a safe and healthy working environment with decent wages and respectable production lines, particularly in Peru, India and Turkey, with emphasis to anti- discrimination and exploitation policies relating to child labour.  What is paramount to Kuyichi is their priority of making sure that their clothes are green uses hand picked organic cotton and dyed with indigo that is immediately recycled.

Currently , they have three denim lines: Pure Denim, Pure Plus (women’s), and their new denim line, Pure Premium.  Pure Premium is the cr??me de la cr??me of their luxury and eco-friendly denims.  Made of 100% organic cotton with a splash of hemp, vegetable dyes, hand washed and refined hardware, consists of four models of jeans (including one for kids), as well as tops, jackets and t-shirts.  Sorry ladies, this line is only for the boys. Well, you can always convert a pair into boyfriend jeans, but if that’s not for you, be sure to check out Kuyichi’s Pure Plus or Pure lines.











View all Kuyichi collections


–Nikki Cho Russo


Posted Aug 19 2009 in Uncategorized

WWD News: Kenny Chesney Apparel Line to Launch at MAGIC, Shopping USA


Kenny Chesney Apparel Line to Launch at MAGIC


From WWD ISSUE 08/19/2009


kenny-chesneyCountry superstar Kenny Chesney is bringing a tour bus to the MAGIC show in Las Vegas ??” literally. 

Chesney will showcase the official launch of his new line of men??™s and women??™s apparel in an Airstream bus that will be on display inside the Las Vegas Convention Center during the trade show at the end of the month. 

The collection, Blue Chair Bay, is a denim- and knit-driven lifestyle line that will have a soft launch for holiday in a handful of specialty stores including Levy??™s in Nashville, Fast Buck Freddys in Key West, Fla., and Ocean Eddies in Gulf Coast, Ala. The full launch will be for spring. 

Chesney, a four-time Entertainer of the Year of both the Country Music Association and the Academy of Country Music, also will headline an invitation-only concert at the Hard Rock Hotel in Las Vegas during MAGIC. 

According to Chesney, ???Just like I don??™t know fashion, I don??™t expect these people to really know who I am, what I do or what I??™d like to think my music represents. So, that??™s why I??™m going to play a very intimate show for a lot of them: bring them in organically to the songs, the stories and give them a sense of who I ??” and the people who live these songs right along with us ??” am.???

Blue Chair Bay is being manufactured by Latitude 17 Degrees South, a company that was formed to create the line for Chesney, according to Eric Dickson, sales manager for Blue Chair Bay Apparel. The collection will include woven shirts, khakis, shorts, T-shirts and jeans. Retail price points include T-shirts for $32 to $38, khakis for $68 to $72, shorts for $48 to $55 and woven shirts for $52 to $62. 

Chesney??™s name and image will not be part of the marketing for the line, but the hangtag will read ???Blue Chair Bay: A Kenny Chesney-inspired brand.??? The name of the collection comes from the singer??™s 2005 album ??” ???Be as You Are: Songs From an Old Blue Chair,??? which featured all self-written songs. 

Click here for the full story



Shopping USA

by WWD Staff

From WWD ISSUE 08/19/2009

SHOPPING USA: Fashion??™s Night Out is extending its reach to Los Angeles and landing within the ivy-covered walls of Ron Herman??™s boutique on Melrose Avenue. In collaboration with Vogue, which helped hatch the idea for the Sept. 10 global shopping event, Herman is corralling at least 30 designers and fashion brands ??” including Monrow, Martin Margiela, Oliver Peoples, Chan Luu, LnA and Beats by Dr. Dre ??” to make personal appearances, launch products and sponsor mini shows in an effort to entice consumers to shop. Other Southern California retailers participating in Fashion??™s Night Out Los Angeles are Neiman Marcus, Maxfield, Trovata, Ron Robinson and Rock & Republic. Even with his support of Fashion??™s Night Out, Herman believes shopping is a 365-day affair. He??™s taking the shop-in-shop concept to the next level with special sections devoted to J Brand, which launched its gallerylike section Saturday with a party attended by actress Christina Ricci, and Quiksilver, whose men??™s-only surf corner opens Aug. 29. ???Hey, it??™s OK to go out and shop,??? Herman said. ???I??™m not asking people to buy a new car. It??™s less than a college education. Just go out and make yourself feel good.???


–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 19 2009 in Uncategorized

Denim Insider: J Brand Gallery a Successful Installation


L to R: Susie Crippen, Christina Ricci (in J Brand "910" in Oil Slick) and Jeff Rudes. Photo credit: Amy Graves.



Last Saturday, the J Brand Gallery debuted at famed retailer Ron Herman.  Co-Founders Jeff Rudes and Susie Crippen were in attendance to present their lines: J Brand, J Brand Boutique, J Brand Denim Co. and the brand new J Brand/Hussein Chalayan collaboration.  Celebrities who attended in support included Jaime Ray Newman of “Eastwick” (coming this fall on ABC); Sarah Jane Morris of ABC’s “Brothers & Sisters”; Nelsan Ellis of HBO’s “True Blood”; Jason Gray Stanford of USA Network’s “Monk”; and Christina Ricci.  Needless to say, the event was a success. 

The Gallery will remain open for all to enjoy at Ron Herman on Melrose:

Ron Herman
8100 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90046

Visit J Brand Online

Jaime Ray Newman (in J Brand "Babe" in Hightide) of "Eastwick". Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Jaime Ray Newman of "Eastwick" in J Brand "Babe" in Hightide . Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Sarah Jane Morris (in J Brand "Love Story") of "Brothers and Sisters" . Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Sarah Jane Morris of "Brothers & Sisters" in J Brand "Love Story". Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Nelsan Ellis of "True Blood" with his son. Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Nelsan Ellis of "True Blood" with his son. Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Jason Gray Stanford (in J Brand Denim Co. "Kane" in Colt) of "Monk". Photo credit: Amy Graves.

Jason Gray Stanford of "Monk" in J Brand Denim Co. "Kane" in Colt. Photo credit: Amy Graves.



Kathy Ng Hassan

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Posted Aug 18 2009 in Uncategorized

Street Style: Mall Mavens

Although I didn’t question them about their love of jeans, I wanted to post some fabulous people I came across on a market research mall run, The Roosevelt Field Mall in Garden City, to be exact. Do not be quick to assume that all mall crawling people are dowdy suburbanites, these folks defy the stereo-typical norm. 



Oh, just your usual shopping attire.  This chic duo were camera ready and picture perfect for any papparazzi that may happen to pop up. Shereen is wearing a vintage dress, H&M hat and gold embellished accessories that tie together her very “French Riviera” look. Richard is exuding rock star attitude in a Zara suit, Burberry tie, shoes by Juno and Diesel sunglasses.  Just fabulicious!

Get the Look:

Shop H&M

Shop Zara

Shop Burberry

Shop Juno

Shop Diesel




Val, well, people call him Vic, is a cool hipster wearing the current trends of acid washed jeans by Kill City, Urban Outfitters plaid shirt, a black tie (from his cousin) and casual suede Wallabee shoes by Clarks.  And just look at that face, adorable!

Get the look:

Shop Kill City Jeans

Shop Urban Outfitters

Shop Clarks

A lesson to be learned, it doesn’t take a whole lot of money to look like a million bucks! 


–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 18 2009 in Uncategorized

Who’s That Girl: Anja Rubik for Gap

Anja Rubik for Gap. Photo taken in San Francisco. Click for Source.

Anja Rubik for Gap. Photo taken in San Francisco. Click for Source.


What?  Is Gap condoning a matchy-match jeans and denim jacket pairing?  Not exactly.  The jacket is a darker rinse, but no matter.  Anja Rubik makes it look good as any model only could. 


anjarubik_jeansanjarubik_tods1Who is she, you may ask?  She’s been one of the numerous pretty faces that have graced the covers of V Magazine (following in Gisele Bundchen’s footsteps) and Vogue Deutsch, Nippon and Paris editions, among others; and, with legs that seem to go on for miles, has struck a fierce pose for Chloe, DSquared2 Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti, Gucci, and many more. 



She's got legs, and she knows how to use them.

Rubik is certainly not a nobody in the world of modelling.  Even though Rubik’s career has not been centrally-focused on denim campaigns, this feature with Gap Premium Jeans could possibly position her for Supermodeldom.  After all, designer and premium jeans have been the darling of the retail establishment and a huge draw among the desired consumer demographic set.

Kathy Ng Hassan

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Posted Aug 18 2009 in Campaigns » Denim News

WWD News: Levi’s Brain Dead Jeans, Comme des Garcons and Converse, Again…Legging, Vintage Styles Drive Kingpins Show

Levi’s Brain Dead Jeans…Comme des Garcons and Converse, Again

by WWD Staff

From WWD ISSUE 08/17/2009


The Levi??™s Vintage display at the SoHo J. Crew store. Photo By Steve Eichner

GET THEM WHILE THEY LAST: Dying for a pair of Levi??™s Brain Dead jeans? Well, J. Crew men??™s stores in lower Manhattan recently snapped up the last of Levi??™s Vintage Clothing stock and are selling the jeans (and one style of sack coat) exclusively at its new shop at 484 Broadway as well as the Liquor Store unit on West Broadway. The selection ??” which is limited edition and re-created using the original techniques from 1873 ??” include the Dead Stock from 1967, the Brain Dead from 1947 and the Barren Land from 1937. They retail from $195 to $395. The Sack Coat is from the Twenties and sells for $298. Frank Muytjens, J. Crew??™s vice president of men??™s design, said the iconic pieces ???replicate the fabric and wash??? of the originals and are even ???woven on the original looms.??? As of Thursday, there were between 40 and 110 pieces of each style, Muytjens said, ???and when they??™re gone, they??™re gone.???


A Comme des Gar?§ons-Converse collaboration. Photo by Courtesy Photo

COMME DOES CONVERSE, AGAIN: After the successful launch of its shoe collaboration in Japan, Comme des Gar?§ons and Converse are dashing into a wider market ??” this time with four styles (two high-top, two oxford). The shoes will be sold at the end of August in Comme des Gar?§ons stores in New York, Paris, London, Hong Kong and Seoul, including select retailers that sell Comme des Gar?§ons Play, and in October, distribution will grow with a second launch in the same Comme des Gar?§ons stores as well as top Converse retailers in the U.S., Canada and China (the collaboration will be known as Comme des Gar?§ons Play for Converse). According to a spokesperson, ???Converse has a long history of being on the feet of those who have chosen to disrupt the status quo???; the collaboration was born out of Rei Kawakubo??™s affection for a particular Chuck Taylor All Star model from the Converse archives that was originally produced in the Fifties for the U.S. Army. Using details from that model, Converse and Kawakubo came up with the four prototypes, which will retail for $100 each. Comme des Gar?§ons isn??™t the only high-fashion brand with which Converse is aligning itself: The company plans collaborations with Missoni and (N)umber (N)ine later this fall.


Legging, Vintage Styles Drive Kingpins Show

by Khanh T.L. Tran

From WWD ISSUE 08/18/2009


Kingpins featured 20 exhibitors. Photo by Stefanie Keenan

LOS ANGELES ??” Legging jeans and vintage styles topped the list of fall trends for premium denim designers who scouted the Kingpins textile show for the newest stretch materials and durable fabrics. 

The West Coast edition of Kingpins, which ran here Aug. 11 and 12, featured fall offerings from 20 exhibitors, ranging from mills and laundries to trim suppliers and factories in Turkey and China. Among the attendees were GoldSign founder and denim industry icon Adriano Goldschmied, Seven For All Mankind creative director Tim Kaeding, Vintage Laundry??™s Alex Caugant, Agave chief executive officer and designer Jeff Shafer, Genetic Denim creative director Ali Fatourechi, Oligo Tissew founder Christopher Enuke, and designers from Levi??™s, Tommy Bahama and BCBG Max Azria Group. 

While price remained a priority, attendees and exhibitors said business has been improving over the past six months. Underscoring the vibrancy of the denim market, Kingpins will host its first show in Hong Kong on Oct. 7 and 8. 

???There??™s definitely a renewed energy and excitement in the marketplace,??? said Agave??™s Shafer. 

However, attendees acknowledged the challenge of appealing to consumers who have grown accustomed to receiving incentives to buy, whether it??™s the U.S. government??™s Cash for Clunkers auto program or discounts at stores. 

???The consumer is quite spoiled right now,??? Shafer said. ???Price is a major issue.??? 

Vendors appeared willing to do as much as they can to help designers stay on budget. 

Turkish manufacturer Denim Village said although its prices sit between its competitors in Italy and China, it can produce vintage-inspired looks with 3-D whiskers, pigment spots and cotton and leather patches. China??™s Zhonghe Marketing Co. Ltd. sought to attract customers as a one-stop shop, which can spin cotton and blends mixed with Tencel or wool, dye the material and sew the garments. Japan??™s Amhot International Inc. said it can produce its yarn-dyed cotton and other fabrics in China, where costs would be half as much as in Japan. 

Click here for the full story


–Nikki Cho Russo

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Posted Aug 18 2009 in Uncategorized
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